Showing posts with label wine service. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine service. Show all posts

Wax on, Wax off




It’s an age old question…to paraphrase Mr. Miyagi, in Karate Kid, should you leave the “wax on, or wax off” when opening your bottle of wine.

In the past, most bottles had a simple capsule or protective sleeve, often called a foil. Now, more and more wineries are dipping their bottle necks in wax.  So, how do you get the cork out?  More on that in a minute. Why is there even a capsule over the cork to begin with?

Back in the day, wine bottles were typically protected with a lead capsule over the neck of the bottle. The purpose was to protect the cork from being chewed on by rats and mice that often inhabited the wine cellars. The capsule also prevented a potentially leaky cork from dripping on the ground, and inviting insects into the cellar. Lead was used, simply because it was easily malleable. You might note that traditional Sommelier service includes a heavy wiping of the bottle pre and post cork removal, in a throwback to the early days of cleaning off as much residue as possible. Research eventually pointed out that lead was toxic, even in trace amounts. By the 1990’s the lead capsules were replaced with tin, aluminum and shrink-wrapped plastic. Now, some wineries don’t even use a capsule, and many have switched to sealing the cork with wax (either with a wax disk, or hand-dipped in sealing wax). Due to cleaner cellaring practices, the need for a capsule mainly serves as a decorative article, and a throwback to old traditions.

Just like a screw cap versus a natural cork….in wine, tradition is part of the romance. To me, a bottle without a capsule feels cheap, or unfinished. I know, it is more of a perception than it is a reality. I like the traditions of wine: cutting off the capsule, screwing in the corkscrew and hearing the pop. Is it just me? I don’t think so.

You will find that some bottles have a paper strip running across the cork, then that is sealed below the capsule. This is basically an assurance of authenticity. The idea being that the capsule and paper both would have to be unbroken, to guarantee that the wine inside had not been tampered with.
Some of the newer capsules, particularly shrink-wrap plastic, are more irritating than foil. I use a waiter’s helper corkscrew, which has a serrated knife. While it works great with foil, it seems to always hang up on plastic, and tear. And, if you use a foilcutter accessory, they often don’t cut through the plastic. Many plastic capsules now come with a “pull tab”, but that just feels cheap to me.

Foil cutter
In the past, I would have used a foilcutter, and removed just the top section of the capsule. Now, I remove the entire capsule with a vertical cut, the length of the capsule. I then peel off the capsule in one piece. This allows you to inspect the capsule. Why? Mold and staining on the inside of the capsule might be an indication of a problem. Staining can indicate leaks, as can mold. But, with mold, remember that corks are semi-porous. A moldy smell in your wine is probably not desirable. Proceed with caution from here. Examine the cork and the wine carefully. Wipe the bottle and cork with a clean cloth, room the cork, examine, then sip the wine, looking for any issues.

Now, back to the original question, “how to remove wax from a wine bottle?” Sealing wax can make a real mess.

There are really only two options: 1) chip away at the wax; or 2) just drill right in and pull the cork out with the wax still on.

I find that chipping away at the wax is messy, and frankly, more effort than is needed. Not only is it time consuming, but your bottle will look like a mess in the end. Remember that wine service is traditional and romantic. Wax flakes all over the table, and chipped bottles kind of take away from that. The wax will not peel away from the bottle, as you might anticipate.

The best way to remove a wax capsule is not to remove it at all. Simply angle your corkscrew into the top of the wax, so that the tip of your worm/auger is imbedded into the wax. Next, slowly twist the auger in, as you gradually bring your corkscrew to an upright position. Next, grip the teeth of our corkscrew onto the outer rim of the wax capsule (you may need to grip the teeth, to keep them in place), then pull the cork out along with the wax. Some people prefer to only partially pull the cork out, then chip away some of the wax, before removing the cork all the way. I just find this to create more of a mess.

Pulltex Waiter's Helper
I should point out that this extraction method requires a waiter’s helper type corkscrew. Many easy pull type corkscrews just can’t handle the wax. My corkscrew is a Pulltex. I have had it for at least eight years, and it continues to be my “go to” corkscrew. Easy to carry, easy to operate, and not terribly expensive.

There you have it, an easy way to remove any capsule. Enjoy the romance and nostalgia that opening a wine bottle offers.

Restaurant Wine Lists

This week, I've had a number of discussions about restaurant wine lists: their pricing, their menu layout, and the expansiveness (or lack there of) of some.

Let me first get a little "pet peeve" out of the way...I am tired of theme restaurants (particularly Italian and Chinese) that have a full menu of regional items, but their wine list doesn't match the cuisine. Even further, their decor and music doesn't follow the theme. When I go to an Italian restaurant, I want the establishment to take me to another place. I want to feel like I am visiting Tuscany. The food, the decor and even the background music. Nothing like walking in, and hearing rap music blazing in the background to prep me for the Floretine Steak and a bottle of Chianti (sarcasm intended).

And, while I'm on Italian restaurants, why is it that a lot of them don't store their wine properly? I don't mean to pick on Italian restaurants, but in my experience they are the biggest culprits. Serving warm wine, that has been stored in the kitchen, is just wrong. More than a few times, I have had to ask for an ice bucket, to chill down my red wine to "room temperature". The cabinet next to the stove is not the proper place for a wine rack.

When it comes to restaurants, there are a number of things that the owner (or Sommelier) needs to pay attention to: 1) the wine list; 2) proper storage; 3) service; and 4) a trained staff.

Whether the wine list is large or small, the restaurant really needs to carry a variety of wines that pair well with the food on the menu. Now, I am one that likes to explore, so I look beyond a wine list that just carries Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. While I have no problems with these wines, I want an experience. I want to try something new. Some restaurants stock their cellars (if they have one) with wines that will wine them awards (check out the Wine Spectators Awards of Excellence List), some will only carry wines that get 90+ points on the latest wine review. Sometimes, these approaches lead to awkward wine lists, that are clumsily organized, with not much thought to the chefs' creations.

My favorite wine lists give me a range of options. I can flip through their wine list by country, or by grape variety. Their pricing is reasonable, and they have the wine in stock (read about some wine experiences - both good and bad, we recently had in Monterey). The wines are also served by a trained staff member, or the Sommelier, and arrive at the correct service temperature. Also, if your wine list is an encyclopedia, give me some time to look it over. It will take me more than a couple minutes to sift through the volumes of wine on the list. Yeah, you know I am a "wine geek" when I look for a wine first, then figure out what food item I am going to order to best pair with my wine choice.

More on pricing. When I mention "reasonable pricing", I don't mean that the restaurant has to give away the wine. I realize everyone is in the business to make a profit. But, with today's tech saavy world, it is very easy to whip out the smart phone, and check the latest retail price of that $42 bottle of Pinot Grigio on the menu, and find that it is selling on Wine.com for $15. I think restaurants need to be conscience of their consumer's knowledge, and price accordingly. I also realize that if I bring my own bottle into a restaurant, I will be paying some sort of corkage fee (legal here in California, but no so in many other states). This corkage fee covers the cost of glassware and service, as well as compensates the establishment for the wine that was not ordered. Where I have a problem is if the lowest priced wine on the menu is $20, then the corkage fee should not be $35. Charge what your lowest priced wine on the menu is.

As a Sommelier, the wine list, the food, and ambiance should all lead to a pleasurable experience. I want the customer to walk away talking positively about the restaurant. I want them to come back, and bring their friends. As a customer, I want to be taken away to another place, and escape from everyday life for a couple hours. I want to eat tapas in Barcelona, and sip a nice glass of Rioja, all while sitting here in California. Is that too much to ask for? I don't think so!