Planning a Wine Tasting Weekend

In a couple weeks our local wine club will be traveling up north to visit the Central Coast wine region of Paso Robles. This is the fourth year our club has gathered together to do an organized weekend of wine tasting. I organized the outing, and arranged for the tastings. In preparation for the trip, I sent out an e-mail to all 28 attendees, giving them an agenda for the weekend. On that e-mail, I added links to the winery websites. With all that information, I still get the question..."how did you determine what wineries to visit, and what should we expect?"

Well, I thought I might share a bit of the process of organizing a weekend outing, then share a little of the rationale of the wineries I picked.

Barrel tasting in Paso Robles

If you have ever tried to organize any type of event, you know the first thing is finding a weekend that works for the most people. The challenge is doubled when you are also gambling on when the grape harvest will take place. This can be a good and bad thing. Harvest means the winemakers will be busy, and have limited time to spend with your group, but it can also mean a great time to watch the winery in action.  Once your time is narrowed down, do you want everyone driving around in their own car, or pay the extra to have a guided tour, or at least a bus to shuttle your group? I prefer to let the local expert take us around (at least for one organized day of tasting). There are many groups that do wine tasting shuttles, and each one has it's own quirks and benefits. Just make some phone calls, and ask questions. (If you want leads for the Paso Robles or Santa Barbara area, send me an e-mail, and I'll pass along my recommendations.) I choose to have one organized day of tasting. We meet on a Saturday morning, and the shuttle takes us to four wineries, serves lunch, and returns us to our hotel seven hours later. During the bus ride, we have a guide, explaining the local area. Everything for Saturday is in their hands. Since we start early on Saturday, most people will arrive on Friday, some earlier than others. For those that show up early, I have always used my local contacts to arrange a tour/tasting/barrel tasting for the (smaller) early arriving group. Sunday, everyone is on their own, and this has turned in to a day for me to catch up on my "wish list" of wineries to visit.

So how to I go about determining what wineries to visit? I'll use this years' trip as an example...I always try to check out new wineries, that the group hasn't been to. I also talk with winemakers I know, and ask for recommendation, but the biggest deciding factor is that I look for diversity. I want a mix of large and small wineries. I want high, medium, and low priced wines, and I want wineries with a mix of wines. Nothing like going to Paso Robles and only tasting Rhone wines at every stop (unless that is what you like). I want people to discover the diversity of an area, and see how different wineries operate. I want people to understand why one wine is more expensive that another.

Cass Winery

This year, we will be visiting five wineries, as an organized group. My "special" Friday tour will be with Cass Winery. I have never been to their winery, but got to know Bryan Cass at a wine tasting event over the summer. I tried his wines and was impressed with the quality, as well as the story behind the label. There is also a tie to our local community. One of our locals buys his grapes from Cass, and produces his own wine (that he shares with his friends). I thought it would be nice to know where the grapes come from, and possible see more of our local get into winemaking....probably a "pipe dream" as most prefer to drink, and not create.

Niner Wine Estates

Our organized tour on Saturday will include four wineries: Niner Estate, Jada, Adelaida, and Windward. Niner wine Estates has been getting a lot of recognition for its' green, gravity flow production facility, so a tour is in order. Niner is a new winery, producing a mix of varieties within the $15-$60 (most around $25). They also are the largest (in acreage) winery we will be visiting on Saturday. They are known for their "Fog Catcher" - a Bordeaux blend (and of course their highest priced wine). On a side note, I also picked Niner Wine Estates because I know Dick Niner. We used to work together back in the 1990's, when he was the owner of the J.B Williams Company, and I was the Western Sales Director.

Jada Winery & Vineyard

The second choice was Jada Winery & Vineyard. I picked this winery based on recommendations from friends. I had been told by many people about the great wine and cheese pairings the winery presents. Jada is about 1/4 the size (in acreage) as Niner, but also offers a mix of Rhone and Bordeaux style wines. Prices run about $25 to $45 for their wines. They also offer an olive oil tasting.

Adelaida Cellars

The third choice was based on the recommendation of the wine tour company, as well as my own research on wineries that had been receiving some positive press. Adelaida Cellars is located only 14 miles from the ocean, and is about the same size as Jada, but makes a number of different varieties, including Bordeaux, Rhone, and Burgundy style wines, as well as a traditional Port blend and even Zinfandel. Their prices range from about $15 to $40.

Windward Vineyard

The last winery on the list was not even on my radar. Originally, I had wanted to visit a very small family run, Italian winery called Fratelli Perata, but, as fate would have it, they are so small, they could not handle a group our size during the harvest (I guess I'll have to visit them on Sunday when I'm not with the large group). At the suggestion of the wine tour company, we will be visiting Windward Vineyard. I have been told they are also a small family run operation. Instead of Italian wines, they specialize is small lot Pinot Noir. Matter of fact, they only make Pinot Noir. Their prices range from $30 to $60. This is by far the smallest of the wineries we will be visiting. According to their website, they only have 15 acres total..

When we return, I'll give you a full recap of our experience at these wineries, as well as any "finds' we discover along the road. I plan on making it a four day weekend, which means about 20 wineries to visit, and three nights of dinners out in Paso Robles. I have my Sunday/Monday wish list of wineries to visit, but I'll take recommendations.....

Santa Barbara County Vintners Association

On Monday, I had the opportunity to attend at wine tasting and winemakers dinner, involving the Santa Barbara County Vintners Association. My wife and I attended as guests of the Grape Encounters radio program. The tasting was held at AKA Bistro, in old town Pasadena. It's been a long time since I've been to the area, and it is a really great restaurant town.

Brandon/Dragonette Cellars

The weather was sunny and hot, about 100 degrees when we arrived at about 4:00pm. After finding a parking spot, we wandered over to the quaint alley, where AKA Bistro was located. By the time we arrived, the venue was buzzing with activity. Check in went smoothly, and we were given a booklet outlining the winemakers in attendance. Each page left enough room to take notes on the wines tasted. As soon as we entered, I caught site with a winemaker friend of mine, Brandon Sparks-Gillis, from Dragonette Cellars. I met Brandon, on a fluke, about four or five years ago as he and the Dragonette brothers had just finished destemming a load of Syrah grapes they had harvest earlier that morning. We were actually there to try Ampelos Wines, but after our tasting, Brandon asked if we'd like to try his wines. From then on, I have been a follower, and adamant supporter of Dragonette Cellars. Their wines are excellent, and the tasting at AKA Bistro was no exception. They make an excellent Sauvignon Blanc, which not too many winemakers in California can say. He also served me his newest creation: Grenache. I'm not a big Grenache fan, but those of you who do like the variety, are going to love this one.

Pinot Noir Tasting

There were a total of 20 different wineries represented at the tasting. They included some of the well known, and not so well known brands of Santa Barbara: Arthur Earl, Babcock, Bedford, Dragonette Cellars, Fess Parker, Hitching Post, Jaffurs, Kenneth Volk, Lafond, Melville, Mosby, Municipal Winemakers, Palmina, Qupe, Riverbench, Sanford, Santa Barbara Winery, Tercero, Verdad, and Zaca Mesa.

Bistro 45 Wine Pairing Menu

There were large groups of people around almost every table. Fess Parker was getting a great turnout, but it may not have all been for their wine...they had an air conditioning vent right above them. Hitching Post, Zaca Mesa, and Kenneth Volk also seemed to draw the crowds. There was no way to get to every winery, much less try the different wines presented at each table. Some of the highlights of the tasting involved the more unusual varieties. I tend to like wines that take a bit of risk, and are different than the norm, so it's no surprise that I was focused in on the blends, and unusual varieties, and stayed away from a lot of the standard Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Some of the wines that stood out, and might be worth the search, or visit to the winery to purchase were: Bedford Winery Riesling (dry and aromatic); Hitching Post Rose (unusual, made with Valdiguie and Pinot Noir); Kenneth Volk 2009 Negrette Cales Vineyard San Benito (an unusual grape that is something between a cross of Pinot Noir and Syrah); Mosby Sangratino and Mosby Lagrien; Palmina Nebbiolo (I wish they had brought some of their Santita...one of the best dessert wines I've found in California); and of course Dragonette Cellars Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah.

Culotte de Boeuf

Bistro 45

The tasting ended around 6:00, and the group was so large, the winemakers dinner had to be split between two sister restaurants. We left AKA Bistro, and drove back east to Bistro 45, where we were seated in an air conditioned room (thank goodness, as the heat was too much). There were about 100 guests seated for the six-course dinner, which included 10 wines, and visits from the winemakers to each table. The best pairing of the night was the second course which consisted of "house cured salmon with orange blossom vinaigrette and lemon-verbena panna cotta, paired with the Qupe Rousanne Bien Nacido Hillside 2008. The other pairing that stood out was the roast sirloin of beef with a beef "ravioli" paired with the Lafond Syrah/Grenache Santa Rita Hills 2007. During the dinner we met with Gray Hartley (Hitching Post), where he poured one of his library wines, a 1997 Hitching Post Pinot Noir. We also had a nice discussion with Stephen James (Melville) and Arthur White (Arthur Earl). We were also entertained by some amazing card tricks, performed by Chef Anton.

Dessert - "Coconut Cream Pie"

Always a fun time meeting with the winemakers, and then seeing how a chef interprets the pairing of the wines with his creations. Next time you're up in Santa Barbara County, check out any of these wineries, I don't think you'll be disappointed. A fun event, made even better by attending as a guest of Grape Encounters...thanks David Wilson.

The Best Zinfandel

Old Vine Zinfandel. Photo courtesy jrwine.com

I often get e-mails from friends asking wine questions. Usually they are wine recommendations, or wine/food pairing questions. This week, I received one from a friend of mine, and I thought it might be worth expanding on. His question, "Quick question...,maybe? In your opinion, where on the west coast of the U.S. is the best Zinfandel grapes grown?"

My response was that "best" is pretty subjective, but that I could narrow that down a little bit. First, California has the "best" Zinfandel, and to narrow that further, I think there are a few regions that do a good job with it: Paso Robles, Lodi (and the Sierra Foothills), and Sonoma/Napa.

Zinfandel has always been referred to as California’s native grape, but that is impossible, as there are no Vitis Vinifera grape varieties that are native to the Americas. It is now thought that it was brought to California during the gold rush, and probably came from the East Coast, via imports from Europe. It is directly related to Italy's Primitivo grape and probably a descendant of a Croatian variety known as Crljenak Kastelanski. DNA evidence is now supporting this theory. While California gets all the attention, Zinfandel is grown in at least 15 other states in the U.S., as well as small production in Australia and Mexico.

Zinfandel is a late ripening grape, so a long growing season is needed, but doesn't respond well to continuous warm weather. Diurnal temperature changes are needed (warm days and cool nights). Soil also makes a difference, as Zinfandel is subject to bunch rot. Well drained soil is ideal. Many of the old vines around the Lodi and California river delta are planted in sandy, well drained, soil.

Harvest is a crucial time for Zinfandel. It is an uneven ripening grape. Within a bunch, you may have ripe grapes mixed in with green grapes and even raisins. The best wineries will make multiple passes through their vineyard to pick only the ripe grapes. Zinfandel also is a high sugar grape, so when fermented, those sugars can convert into a large amount of alcohol (have you ever really looked at the alcohol levels on your bottle of Zinfandel?). With those high sugar levels comes lower acidity, and softer tannins. This helps to emphasize the dark fruit notes that are so typical of Zinfandel. Zinfandel is one of those unique grape varieties that can be made into different styles. From white Zinfandel, to fruity, to spicy to dessert wine, Zinfandel covers the field. Since Zinfandel is a fairly light colored wine, it is often blended with Petite Sirah, which adds a little depth of color.

Certain California regions are regarded as "exceptional" for Zinfandel, each with their own particular characteristics:

1. The Sierra Foothills has a reputation for big, full-bodied Zinfandel. These extra-ripe wines are characterized as "jammy, briary, and brambly", having aromas of sweet berries.
2. Sonoma County contains the warm Dry Creek Valley AVA, known for its juicy Zinfandel with bright fruit, balanced acidity and notes of blackberry, anise and pepper. Dry Creek Valley AVA produces Zinfandel in a variety of styles ranging from the high-alcohol style to balanced, spicy wines. And, the Russian River Valley AVA has a lot of "old vine" Zinfandel acreage. These wines are known for their spicy and somewhat lower alcohol wines. During cooler growing seasons, the Russian River Zins may have difficulty ripening, and produce their best wines during warm vintages.
3. Paso Robles with its hot days and cool evenings, produce Zinfandel known for being soft and round, but often very high in alcohol.
4.  Napa Valley produces Zinfandel wines described as plummy and intense, tasting of red berry fruits with cedar and vanilla.
5. Lodi has some of the oldest Zinfandel vines in California. While often used for White Zinfandel production, in the red style, Lodi Zinfandels have a reputation for being juicy and approachable. Lodi is also producing some of the finest "port style" dessert wines from the Zinfandel grape.

So, to answer the question of "best"...it would have to be determined by the style you like. I like Tobin James. They seem to make the most of these different styles. You can get full blown "fruit bombs" with their Fat Boy, or drier spicier styles with their Ballistic. I happen to like their Dusi Vineyards label (or anything coming out of Dusi Vineyards)...as it is a nice cross between spicy and fruity. My wine club just had a Zinfandel from Napa (Buehler Vineyards) and it seemed to be the favorite of the night. One of the nicest Zinfandels I've had was Ancient Peaks, however they are hard to find, and even when you go to their winery, their inventory may already be depleted. If you look at wine ratings, the Russian River, Dry Creek, Napa Valley, Paso Robles and Lodi seem to get the high ratings, but again, it depends on what you like, as to which region is the "best".

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