Thanksgiving wines

Where did the year go? It's Thanksgiving already, and time to figure out what wines I want to share at our Thanksgiving dinner. A year ago, I wrote about the difficulty in doing a "perfect pairing" with the dinner. There are so many components, and different family traditions that it would be impossible for me to give you the perfect wine to pair with your meal. This year, I'm going to break my own rules, and actually offer up some wines that I think work with all types of Thanksgiving meals.

Remember out basic "rules" for wine pairing: consider the most prominent flavors in your meal; the weight of the meal; and finally, what wines will your guests enjoy.

Whites
There are a number of white wines that work with Turkey, and all the trimmings. Probably the most common would be Chardonnay. I find that those that are heavy on the oak, detract from the meal, so look for stainless steel fermentation, or lightly oaked. Personally, I like to serve something a little out of the ordinary, rather than Chardonnay. My first choice would be a Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling. On the lighter side, a Pinot Gris (Grigio) might be something to look at. For those that like Chardonnay...try a Viognier instead. If you are really daring, I love Italian Falanghina. All of these are getting easier to find in your local wine shop.

Some of my favorites:
Dragonette Cellars Happy Canyon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (The best Sauvignon Blanc in California).
Dr Hermann 2008 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (the best value in German Riesling I have found)
Trimbach Riesling
Cantina Del Taburno 2010 Falanghina
Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris 2009 (from Alsace, France)

Reds
Red wine is a little harder to pair with Turkey, but when you add cranberries, nuts, and sausage stuffing, red might just be the go to wine. Most people might run right to the Merlot (and a fruitier version might work), but I think Pinot Noir would be a better choice, as would Zinfandel. Want to try something different? How about an Italian Barbera, or a French Beaujolais? You do know that the Beaujolais Nouveau came out last week, don't you? I'm not a big fan of the nouveau version, but a Beaujolais Village (Morgon, or Moulin-a-vent) would be a great addition.

Some of my favorites:
Duboeuf 2009 Jean Descombes Morgon (Gamay from France)
Dragonette Cellars Cargassachi Jalama Pinot Noir 2008
Ampelos Rho Pinot Noir 2008
Windward Monopole Pinot Noir 2008
Palmina Barbera
Tobin James Zinfandel (I like Fat Boy, or Dusi Vineyards)
Kunde Old Vine Zinfandel

Of course, if you can't decide between red or white, go with Rose or even a Sparkling wine. I love the roses' that are coming out now. They are dry, and full of fruit (not like your parents' white zinfandel). Sparkling wine doesn't have to be an expensive Champagne...look for a Spanish Cava, or (surprise) a New Mexico sparkler from Gruet (believe me, you'll be surprised). For rose, I love the wines coming out of Southern France. If you can find it, try the Domaine Tempier. If you want to stay state-side, check out Dragonette Cellars Rose of Pinot Noir (stunning), or Foley Rose.

I asked my friend, Brandon Sparks-Gillis (winemaker at Dragonette Cellars) what wines he would serve. Here is his response, "I love Rose w/ Thanksgiving because it works so well w/ anything on the table. Happy Canyon Sauvignon Blanc ('09 or '10) has the body to pair remarkably well w/ turkey, and pretty much everything else. Our Pinots...ditto...I'd go for the 08's if you have any, or decant the 09 Fiddlestix for an hour or so. The surprise might be the 09 Grenache. It's got earth and spice that complement the fall flavors, and it's killer w/ cranberries and pumpkin pie. Have a great Thanksgiving, and let us know what pairings you find!"

Jim Newcomb & Brandon Sparks-Gillis

I hope that whatever wine you choose, you don't fret over it. It is more important to share time with your family and friends, than to worry about the wine. Have some fun. Experiment. Try something new, and share your best pairings, by adding your comments below. I am thankful for those of you who have been following this blog, and sharing it with your friends. I am thankful for those that keep voting for my blog (see the vote here link at the upper right of the page),,,you have moved my blog into the top 130 wine blogs in the country. Keep it going, and have a Happy Thanksgiving!

Santa Barbara County Vintners Association

On Monday, I had the opportunity to attend at wine tasting and winemakers dinner, involving the Santa Barbara County Vintners Association. My wife and I attended as guests of the Grape Encounters radio program. The tasting was held at AKA Bistro, in old town Pasadena. It's been a long time since I've been to the area, and it is a really great restaurant town.

Brandon/Dragonette Cellars

The weather was sunny and hot, about 100 degrees when we arrived at about 4:00pm. After finding a parking spot, we wandered over to the quaint alley, where AKA Bistro was located. By the time we arrived, the venue was buzzing with activity. Check in went smoothly, and we were given a booklet outlining the winemakers in attendance. Each page left enough room to take notes on the wines tasted. As soon as we entered, I caught site with a winemaker friend of mine, Brandon Sparks-Gillis, from Dragonette Cellars. I met Brandon, on a fluke, about four or five years ago as he and the Dragonette brothers had just finished destemming a load of Syrah grapes they had harvest earlier that morning. We were actually there to try Ampelos Wines, but after our tasting, Brandon asked if we'd like to try his wines. From then on, I have been a follower, and adamant supporter of Dragonette Cellars. Their wines are excellent, and the tasting at AKA Bistro was no exception. They make an excellent Sauvignon Blanc, which not too many winemakers in California can say. He also served me his newest creation: Grenache. I'm not a big Grenache fan, but those of you who do like the variety, are going to love this one.

Pinot Noir Tasting

There were a total of 20 different wineries represented at the tasting. They included some of the well known, and not so well known brands of Santa Barbara: Arthur Earl, Babcock, Bedford, Dragonette Cellars, Fess Parker, Hitching Post, Jaffurs, Kenneth Volk, Lafond, Melville, Mosby, Municipal Winemakers, Palmina, Qupe, Riverbench, Sanford, Santa Barbara Winery, Tercero, Verdad, and Zaca Mesa.

Bistro 45 Wine Pairing Menu

There were large groups of people around almost every table. Fess Parker was getting a great turnout, but it may not have all been for their wine...they had an air conditioning vent right above them. Hitching Post, Zaca Mesa, and Kenneth Volk also seemed to draw the crowds. There was no way to get to every winery, much less try the different wines presented at each table. Some of the highlights of the tasting involved the more unusual varieties. I tend to like wines that take a bit of risk, and are different than the norm, so it's no surprise that I was focused in on the blends, and unusual varieties, and stayed away from a lot of the standard Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Some of the wines that stood out, and might be worth the search, or visit to the winery to purchase were: Bedford Winery Riesling (dry and aromatic); Hitching Post Rose (unusual, made with Valdiguie and Pinot Noir); Kenneth Volk 2009 Negrette Cales Vineyard San Benito (an unusual grape that is something between a cross of Pinot Noir and Syrah); Mosby Sangratino and Mosby Lagrien; Palmina Nebbiolo (I wish they had brought some of their Santita...one of the best dessert wines I've found in California); and of course Dragonette Cellars Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah.

Culotte de Boeuf

Bistro 45

The tasting ended around 6:00, and the group was so large, the winemakers dinner had to be split between two sister restaurants. We left AKA Bistro, and drove back east to Bistro 45, where we were seated in an air conditioned room (thank goodness, as the heat was too much). There were about 100 guests seated for the six-course dinner, which included 10 wines, and visits from the winemakers to each table. The best pairing of the night was the second course which consisted of "house cured salmon with orange blossom vinaigrette and lemon-verbena panna cotta, paired with the Qupe Rousanne Bien Nacido Hillside 2008. The other pairing that stood out was the roast sirloin of beef with a beef "ravioli" paired with the Lafond Syrah/Grenache Santa Rita Hills 2007. During the dinner we met with Gray Hartley (Hitching Post), where he poured one of his library wines, a 1997 Hitching Post Pinot Noir. We also had a nice discussion with Stephen James (Melville) and Arthur White (Arthur Earl). We were also entertained by some amazing card tricks, performed by Chef Anton.

Dessert - "Coconut Cream Pie"

Always a fun time meeting with the winemakers, and then seeing how a chef interprets the pairing of the wines with his creations. Next time you're up in Santa Barbara County, check out any of these wineries, I don't think you'll be disappointed. A fun event, made even better by attending as a guest of Grape Encounters...thanks David Wilson.

Wine Tasting vs Wine Drinking - Part Three (Palate)

In our previous two blogs, we evaluated the appearance of the wine in our glass, and stuck our nose down in there. We should have some idea of what to expect when we finally get some wine in our mouth....but not so fast! Now comes the portion of our examination that takes quick evaluation, great concentration, good memory, slurping, sucking and spitting..

Remember your elementary school classes about the senses? When it comes to taste, we sense sweet, salt, sour, bitter. We don't typically worry about salt when tasting wine, but it does show up in certain wines produced near the sea, so for now, let's just focus on the other three. Take a small sip of wine, and notice how it affect the tip of your tongue (this is where you sense sweetness). See diagram to the right.

Since sweetness is the first thing you sense, it is the first taste we evaluate. Is the wine sweet, dry, or somewhere in between? Be sure not to confuse "fruitiness" with "sweetness", as wine can be fruity but dry. Sweetness is determined by the residual sugar in the wine. If you are not sure, just stick the tip of your tongue in the glass. It may look a bit odd to others, but it will confirm your evaluation.

Next is to determine the acidity (sour) of the wine. This is sensed on the sides of the tongue and is felt by the mouth-watering affect the wine has.This can be evaluated as low to high, or some where in between. Want some help in determining the difference between low and high? Try a low acid Gewurztraminer versus a high acid Riesling....I think you'll notice the difference.

Now swirl the wine around in your mouth. "Chew" it, and get it on your teeth and gums. If you get an astringent feeling, this is tannins. You won't typically sense this in white wines, as tannins are from the grape skins, stems, pips, and also from barrels. Again, these can be non-existent, or low to high. Where acid was mouth watering, tannins are mouth drying. If you are still not sure how tannins affect you, try tasting a styptic pencil (found at your local pharmacy).

Next, evaluate the "body" of the wine. Is it light (like skim milk), or heavy (like cream), or some where in between (2% or whole milk). This can be affected by alcohol, sugar, tannins, and the fruit itself.

When you swallow the wine, you can sense alcohol in the back of your throat. If it is balanced, you won't get much "heat", but if it is not balanced with the acidity, then you might get a sense of heat. This evaluation should confirm what you saw in our appearance check (legs or tears are signs of alcohol and/or residual sugar).

What is the intensity of the wine in your mouth? Are you getting all types of flavors, or is there barely anything there? This can be rated from light, to medium, all the way up to pronounced. The best way I find to get a good sense of intensity (and the next step: flavor characteristics) is to slurp my wine. I draw a small amount of air through my lips and gurgle the wine in my mouth. As I draw air in my mouth, I release it through my nose to try and get as much of the wine aroma into my nasal passages. Remember, the majority of taste is actually smell. Try plugging your nose while tasting your favorite food, if you don't believe me.

So, what do you taste? What are the flavor characteristics? Rather than going over the list again, take a look back at our last post about nose, and see the common descriptors we provided. In the beginning, these might be basic characteristics that you can determine, but with practice, you'll get more specific.

The last evaluation is the length of the finish. How long does the taste of the wine remain? Take note of the lingering taste, and count in your head. Keep mental track of the length and compare it to other similar wines. High quality wines typically have long length with a good concentration of flavors

There is one last evaluation for taste, and that has to do with bubbles (or mousse). This is pretty obvious on sparkling wines, but you may encounter bubbles in wines due to secondary fermentation in the bottle (a fault in still wines), or a slight fizz in some wines, like Vinho Verde. If it is a sparkling wine, are they gentle bubbles or aggressive? Do they last, or fade? These can be indications of quality.

Before recording your tasting notes, make sure you sip your wine, swirl, gurgle, and spit. Wait for the finish. Savor the experience....now you can take notes.

If you've followed the last two blogs, plus this one, you should now have a good basis for evaluating a wine. In our final blog of this series, we will put it all together to come up with conclusions about the wine we have in our glass. Oh...and not to over-emphasize....when tasting (versus drinking) remember to spit the wine out. If you keep on swallowing, your senses will be dulled, and evaluation will mean nothing. This is one of the biggest differences between tasting and drinking.