Chilean Dinner and Wine Pairing

Every few months, we get together with friends and put together a gourmet dinner, based on a country, or cuisine, chosen by the host. This time around, it was my turn to host, and since my wife and I recently spent a few weeks in Chile (trip recap here), we decided to give Chilean Cuisine a go.

Since Chile is located in South America, most people would expect something similar to Mexican food, but you would be wrong.  There is a strong influence from traditional Spanish cuisine, but it is mixed with local ingredients, and more importantly, the influences of European cuisines, particularly from Germany, Italy and France. When we traveled to Chile, we experienced fresh fruits and vegetable, an array of seafood and meats. 

Chile and Peru have a long running argument over who is responsible for the potato. I will stay out of the argument, but will attest to the prevalence of the potato, particularly in the south around Chiloe. In the north, we experienced quinoa in multiple forms, but the most unusual was puffed quinoa. Corn, known as “choclo” was also abundant.

With the extended shoreline of Chile, seafood was found everywhere. Salmon farms in the Lake and Patagonia districts are very common. Hake was a particularly common fish in restaurants, but rarely found in my local grocery stores. Lamb cooked on a rack, set up around an open fire pit was a memorable tasting experience.

At almost every meal, we were served local “street bread” known as Pan Amasado. I would liken it to hard tack. It was a small, often tasteless roll or biscuit, always indented with the tines of a fork on top. The bread was served with a form of salsa, known as Pebre, and sometimes with as many as three different dipping or spreading sauces.

The goal for this dinner was to create a menu that represented the different regions of Chile. We incorporated all the main ingredients and searched for recipes in a number of Chilean cookbooks. In a few cases, the herbs or proteins were not to be found, or required some searching. But, what resulted was one of our better dinner/wine pairing experiences. And, the total cost (including wine) was only $50/person!

The first course was an appetizer course of seafood items: Merluza Rellena con Pimientos y Coulis de Ceboletta (Hake filled with Piquillo peppers with scallion coulis); and Salmon ahumado en tazas de pepino (Smoked salmon in cucumber cups). Hake was nowhere to be found, so it was substituted with Talapia. This was a wonderfully light opening dish that was paired with the 2013 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc. The couple who made this dish smoked their own salmon and were able to source piquillo peppers for the dish. The wine had a crisp acidity to it, with fruit and mineral notes. It was a nice pairing, particularly with the smoked salmon dish.

Our second course consisted of a traditional ensalada (salad) course: Ensalada a la Chilena (Tomato and sweet onion salad) along with Humitas de Choclo (Corn tamales). For this course, we paired with the 2012 Bodegas Re "Chardonnoir". The salad was pretty standard, but the Humitas required some tamale making skills, as well as experimenting with the consistency of the filling. The couple who were responsible for this course watched a few youtube.com videos to hone their assembly techniques. Additionally, they were able to find Aji pepper paste at a local Mexican grocery store, to keep this dish authentic. The wine pairing was interesting, in that the wine was a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (not unusual for sparkling wine, but this was a still wine).  It had a pink/orange hue to it, and was fairly high in acid, and medium body.  On the nose, there were aromas of stone fruit, tangerine, and minerals. Again, a very nice pairing.

The main course was my responsibility, as the host. Since I don’t have an open pit fire, I resorted to a barbecue to make Cordero a la Parilla con Merquen y salsa menta (Grilled Merquen Lamb skewers with mint salsa). With this, I served Papas Rostizadas (roasted  multi-colored fingerling potatoes). The lamb marinated for about two hours in a yogurt and merquen  sauce. I was able to find the traditional Merquen pepper mix online, and it is worth finding. The lamb was put on skewers alternating with peaches and bay leaves, and slowly grilled, then served with a mint salsa. The fingerling potatoes were simply roasted with garlic and rosemary. With this course, I had two different red wines (I bought both while in Chile): 2011 Errazuriz Don Maximiano and 2008 Casa Silva Carménère Microterroir. Both wines are wonderful examples of what Chile can do. The Errazuriz was their founder’s reserve, and is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, and has the typical Cab notes you would expect: cassis, currant black pepper, and clove, along with firm tannins. In hindsight, I wish I had held this longer, as I think it was still too young. The Carménère, on the other hand was perfect with the lamb. It was a powerful wine with sweet soft tannins. On the nose, black cherry and spice, with a long finish.

The final course was a dessert course, and this couple had more of a challenge, as the recipe really didn’t exist.  We had Tarta de Fruta con Quinoa soplada (Fruit tart with puffed Quinoa) along with Helado de rica-rica (rica-rica ice cream). After some searching, we found puffed quinoa to make the tart crust. The crust was then lined with a layer of chocolate, and filled with custard and fruit. The tart was served with “rica-rica” ice cream. I put the “rica-rica” in quotation marks, because it is impossible to find this herb outside of Chile (if anyone finds it, let me know where). We tried to recreate the flavor of rica-rica by combining rosemary, mint, sage and lemon zest. An unusual ice cream flavor, but it worked. With this course, we made Vaina, a blended drink consisting of Ruby Port, Cognac, Crème de Cacao, eggs, powdered sugar and ice, then topped with cinnamon. These go down too smoothly, so be careful!

There you have it, a four course Chilean dinner, including wine, for only $50/person. And, a fun evening with friends and fine food, made with your own hands. If you want any of the recipes, let me know in the comments section below.

Michael David Wine Dinner

What happens with you put together California wines, and an inspired chef? .....Magic!

John Lee, David Phillips, Carmen Rodriguez

This night, we gathered at the Lake Arrowhead Resort, high in the San Bernardino Mountains. John Lee, the Food and Beverage manager, had informed me that the co-owner of Michael David Winery would be in town, to host a winemaker dinner with the new Executive Chef, Carmen Rodriguez. The Lake Arrowhead Resort is now a Marriott Autograph Collection property. The new Executive Chef came from the Four Diamond award winning, Fuego at La Posada in Santa Fe, New Mexico. On top of that, Chef Carmen was New Mexico’s Chef of the year in 2012. 

Michael David Winery is a family owned business of 5^th generation growers, dating back to the 1850’s in Lodi, California. David Phillips is the co-owner/President, along with his older brother, Michael. The Family has over 750 acres of vineyards that they own, and also purchases from vineyards throughout California. Many of their labels will be familiar to wine drinkers: 7 Deadly Zins, Earthquake, Freakshow, Petite Petit (the circus label), and Icognito. Their quality wines are sometimes passed up (or in many cases, purchased) because of their eye-catching labels and names.

As we gathered in the impressive Magnum Room in the Bin 189 Restaurant, we were offered a glass of Spanish sparkling wine, and the opportunity to talk with David Phillips. We talked about growing grapes in the Lodi region, and how the diurnal temperature changes and the sandy soil make for great wines. Phylloxera hasn’t shown up in Lodi yet, allowing the Zinfandel vines to continue to produce. The Zinfandel vines range from 20 to 118 years old. The Cinsault vines are actually older than 130 years. I know Michael David for their Zinfandels and Petite Petit, but this night, we would experience a full range of their wines. David discussed his wines, and the fact that they have 65 different growers, all following sustainable practices. Of those 65, thirty five of them only grow Zinfandel. Every year, the Zinfandel growers submit their grapes, and each vineyard is fermented individually. All the Zinfandels are blind tasted by the growers (so all 35 taste each other’s wines) and they judge the best. Not knowing whose wine is whose, the winner is picked and that vineyard grower is awarded a bonus. The competition to grow the best grapes, makes for better wine.

This night, we were presented with a 7-course meal, all paired with Michael David wines. The interesting thing to me (which is contrary to what I do as a Sommelier) is that Chef Carmen Rodriguez is not a wine drinker. He paired all the courses based on the winery description of the wines, interpreting those descriptions into his food and sauce choices.

Our first course was a light Grilled Lobster Spring Roll with an Aguadolce drizzle and Wasabi Tobiko. This was paired with the 2013 Michael David Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes were sourced from Lake County, Lodi and Napa Valley (Duckhorn winery). The wine had a nice bright acidity to it, with ripe citrusy fruit flavors. The wine and the grilled lobster worked nicely together, pulling out the subtle caramelization of the lobster. 

Our second course was Chile-rubbed Seared Diver Scallops over micro greens and a fried plantain with a Sherry, Chipotle Gastrique. This was paired with the 2013 Michael David Chardonnay. I was a bit concerned about the potential heat from the chipotle, but Chef Carmen had used three vinegars and butter to create a coating that kept the heat down. The Chardonnay had been handpicked, taking three passes through the vineyard. It was aged in 100% new oak, and about 40% had been exposed to malolactic fermentation. The creamy oak flavors in the wine paired nicely with the butter in scallops.

Our third course had everyone talking, a French Onion Duck Confit Soup, served with the 2012 Petite Petit. This rich soup included a foie gras brie crostini. The rich duck and caramelized onions begged for a heavier wine, and the Petite Petit hit the mark with it’s’ blend of 85% Petite Sirah and 15% Petit Verdot. I have enjoyed this wine over the years, and had always wondered about the label. Upon closer inspection, and guidance from David Phillips, the hidden messages were obvious. First, the label was designed by a Grateful Dead fan, so there are references such as the time on the clock, and the lamp stand (which looks like a bong) throughout. Also, all the wines made by Michael David winery are identified on the label (take a look at the top photo on this blog).

The fourth course was Sweetbreads and crispy pork belly in an herbed wine demi glace. Chef Carmen explained that the sweetbreads were bathed in a milk bath at 97°F, rather than boiled. This was served with the Rapture 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes (90% Cabernet Sauvignon & 10% Petite Sirah) for this wine come from Michael David’s own vineyard, and are aged 18 months in 100% new French oak. This is a deep colored Cabernet with notes of blackberry and hints of cocoa. The tannins were smooth for such a young Cab.

The fifth course was more of a “palette cleansing” course, and consisted of roasted beets, layered with pine nuts and Chevre. Chef Carmen included local honey along with the sweet roasted beets. This was paired with the Ink Blot 2013 Cabernet Franc. This wine really needs to open up. David noted that the wine was released earlier than planned, due to high demand. Even extensive swirling couldn’t get the wine to open up.  Unfortunately, the tightness of the wine was over-powered by the sweetness of the dish. David said that the 2012 Ink Blot would have worked perfectly….but since it is sold out, we may never know.

The main course of the evening consisted of three items plated together, and three wines. The first was a lamb ragout, but not just any lamb. Chef Carmen used Halal lamb. He explained that Halal Lamb is slaughtered with a sharp knife by cutting the throat, windpipe and the blood vessels in the neck, causing the animal's death without cutting the spinal cord. Lastly, the blood from the veins must be drained. This prevents the lamb from having the gamey flavors commonly associated with lamb. My wife, who does not care for lamb, said this was the best lamb she had ever had. The lamb was served on top of a Manchego Polenta, and served with the Rage 2012 Zinfandel. This was my favorite pairing of the evening. This Zinfandel comes from 35 year old vines, and has a mix of spice and fruit, that expresses the terroir of the Dry Creek region. The second item was a Lavender rubbed Venison Tenderloin over Rose Petal Risotto and a Mountain Berry reduction, served with the Gluttony 2012 Zinfandel. The grapes for this Zinfandel come from 85 year old vines located in Amador County. If you read the description of the entrée, then you know the profile of the wine…berries, roses, lavender. The final portion of this course was a Fire-kissed Ribeye with roasted mushroom truffle butter. The ribeye was from Brandt beef, which produces only natural beef (no hormones or antibiotics). This was paired with the Lust 2012 Zinfandel. This wine is produced only from the best Zinfandel lots, and is a big, jammy wine.

We ended the evening with a dessert course of Blood Orange Saffron Cheesecake, paired with the Michael David Symphony. Symphony is a hybrid variety created by crossing Muscat of Alexandria with Grenache Gris. This is not an overly sweet wine, but offered nice aromas of peach and apricot. The moderate plus acidity cut through the creaminess of the cheesecake, making a perfect end for the evening.

A couple takeaway notes from this fine evening…Michael David Winery makes some seriously good wines. Look beyond the catchy wine labels, and enjoy their generations of experience. The second note is that the Lake Arrowhead Resort is back as a powerhouse in wine pairing events, with the excellent skills of Chef Carmen Rodriguez. I look forward to future events. But, you don’t have to wait for an event, check out the Lake Arrowhead Resort for your next vacation getaway, and enjoy a dinner at their restaurant: Bin 189.

Some Basics of Bordeaux

When I first started learning about wine, I knew I liked the red wines from Bordeaux. The only problem I had, back then, was that I really didn’t know what it was. There were so many different names and price points. How could anyone figure out what was good, and what tasted the best?

This week, I am going to delve into Bordeaux. This will, in no way, be an extensive discussion of Bordeaux, but only the basics to get you started on your journey. Heck, novels have been written about this special wine region, and there is no way I could possibly fit all that information into a short wine blog.

To begin, Bordeaux is a wine growing region, located in the southwest of France, in particular, along the west coast, and along the Gigonde Estuary.  It was originally planted by the Romans. The geographical location was ideal for trading with the Dutch and English. It was eventually the Dutch who were able to drain the marsh land, expand the wine growing region The English connection was strengthened when King Henry II married Aliénor d‘Aquitaine, giving England control over the entire region. This English connection would weigh heavy on the style of wines created in Bordeaux, and develop a lucrative export market for the region.

First, the Dutch influence. Prior to the Dutch, most of the vineyards were located an area known as Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers and the original growing regions of the Romans, on the right bank (more on that later). The Dutch had developed techniques for draining marshland, and making it usable. They helped drain the marshland along the Gigonde River, exposing large mounds of gravel that had piled up over the millennium. Little did they know that this would soon become some of the finest wine growing acreage in the world. 

By the mid 1800’s the “Château concept” had been developed. This concept may well be the first wine branding, based on the wine producers identity, rather than the soils the grapes were grown in. By the time of the Paris World’s Fair, in 1855, certain Château had gained recognition, and were classified (or divided) into categories that basically reflected the selling prices of the region’s wines, over the past 100 years. The thought was that the best wines would demand the highest prices.  Among dry red wines, 4 were classified as Premiers Crus (1st Growth), 16 as Deuxièmes Crus (2nd Growth), and the balance were granted 3rd, 4th, and 5^th growth status.  One sweet wine Château was given status of Premier Cru Supérieur: Château d‘Yquem. Since the official 1855 classification, there has only been one change. In 1973, Château Mouton-Rothschild was promoted from 2nd growth to 1st growth status. The Medoc wines that are in the 1855 Classification are known as "Crus Classés", or Classed Growths.

The challenge with the 1855 classification, has to do with the “Château concept” itself. While these may have been the best wines in 1855, the land each owns has possibly expanded, owners may have changed, and even the style of wine may have changed. In other words, the brand name remains the same, but the product, and the source of the product may be different. Some that were rated as 5^th Growth, may now be performing as good as or better than 1^st Growth. Is this a reliable way to determine whether a wine is worth the high price? Maybe, maybe not. I will spend more time on the classification system of Bordeaux, in a follow up article.

As I mentioned, Bordeaux is located on the Atlantic coast. This, along with the Gironde Estuary (created by the merger of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers), moderate the regions’ temperatures.  The region is somewhat sheltered from the ocean breezes, by the Landes forest. The summers are long and mild, while the winters a cool and wet. The humidity, and cool maritime storms are the biggest challenge to growing in the Bordeaux region. The uncertain growing conditions meant that not all grape varieties would ripen at the same time, or even ripen at all. For this reason, many grape varieties are grown in Bordeaux, and the typical wines produced are blends of those grapes. The multiple varieties should be looked at as an “insurance policy”, to make sure there would be something at harvest to produce. Early budding and early ripening varieties (such as Merlot) are combined with later-budding and later-ripening varieties (such as Cabernet Sauvignon).

The rivers provide important geographical boundaries, and understanding their locations is important in understanding the various districts which comprise the region. If you have ever heard the term “right bank” or “left bank” for Bordeaux wines, this refers to a specific growing region. If you were floating down stream in on one of the rivers, the “right bank” would be on your right. Picture a large river, and if are going down stream,  as the river bends, all the heavy material (rocks, twigs, etc.) is being pushed to the left side. On the right side, there is more limestone and clay. You now have an idea of the differences in soil type on the left and right banks of Bordeaux. Additionally, the right bank has less protection from the maritime climate, since it is more exposed. As you can imagine, this has an effect on the types of grape varieties that can be grown in each area. 

On the right bank, we find mainly Merlot and Cabernet Franc Vineyards. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, and is supplemented with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. White grapes are also grown, but are mainly found in the Entre-Deux-Mers region. Here we find Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Some of the finest dessert wines in the world are found in Sauternes.

Hopefully the left bank versus right bank makes more sense now. To complicate things further, within each region, there are districts, which can be further broken down into communes. The analogy I have used in the past, is the Russian nesting egg. You have a large egg, and inside is a smaller egg, an inside that is another small egg, etc. Each time you get to a smaller egg, you are getting more refined. The same is true for the wines of Bordeaux. The larger districts on the left bank (from west to east, or downstream to upstream) are:  Médoc, Haut-Médoc, and Graves.  On the right bank, they are: Cotes de Blaye, Canon Fronsac, Pomerol , and St. Emillion. Between the rivers is Entre-Deux-Mers.

The most specific designations within Bordeaux are the communes. These have the strictest regulations concerning winemaking, and grape growing. These are typically the finest wines of Bordeaux. Some of the best known on the left bank are St. Estephe, Pauillac,, St. Julien, Margaux, Pessac-Leognan and Sauternes. There are too many differences between these communes, to spend any reasonable time discussing in this article. I see an opportunity for a few future articles!

As stated at the beginning of this article, there is a lot of information required to understand Bordeaux. This is just the tip of the iceberg of what there is to know about the region, but the best way to learn is to taste, and see for yourself what the differences are.

Next week, I will spend some time on the different classifications within Bordeaux. First up: The 1959 Graves Classification.