Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte |
Last week, I shared some basic Bordeaux information. This
gave you a “lay of the land” type of look at this world famous wine region. After
World War II, interest in developing a classification system for the Graves
region, began to grow. The fortunes of Bordeaux seemed poised to rise again,
and the 1855 Classification had been in place for nearly 100 years, so it was
time to take a look at some of the missing regions of the left bank.
The 1855 Bordeaux classification did not consider any
Bordeaux wine, other than Chateau Haut-Brion produced in what was then known as
the Graves appellation (today known as the Pessac-Leognan appellation, which
was introduced in 1987). In 1953, the producers in the Graves appellation
decided to rectify the situation, and came up with their own classification
system. The difficulty in developing a classification system, was that it now
entailed negotiations with the newly formed INAO “Institute National des Appellations
d’Origine). The “Graves Wine Syndicate”
formed a special committee consisting of various wine merchants and brokers. The
members of the panel were asked to determine those wine producers that should
be on the list.
On August 7, 1953, an unofficial list was created. This list
was exclusively for red wines. It took a few years, but the classification of Graves
wine was finalized on February 16, 1959, and also included white wines. This
list included Chateau Haut-Brion, with the same classification they earned in the
1855 Bordeaux classification:"Premiere Grand Cru Classé". The other chateaux that
belong to the 1959 Graves Classification were also entitled to add the term, "Grand Cru
Classé", on their labels for all releases on a going forward continuing basis.
The Graves official classification was patterned after the
1855 classification. One of the key determining factors they took into
consideration was the selling price over a long period of time as well as
considerations for the terroir, soils and production methods. The Graves system
is pretty simple…the properties are simply granted “Cru Classe” status. There
are no levels, as in the 1855 classification. While simple, the potential
problem with the Graves classification is that it makes no quality
distinctions. All of the Chateau are
given the same status, and there are obvious variations among the classed
growths. The listings for the 1959 Graves Classification are divided between
red wines and white Bordeaux wines. There are a total of 16 Chateau that have
been classified. Some are listed for both red and white wines. These classified
estates total more than 500 hectares of the Pessac Leognan appellation, representing
40% of the entire Pessac Leognan appellation.
While the 1855 Classification is set in stone, there could be
new additions to the Graves Classification. If a chateau demonstrates they
produce wine that is better than most of the members of the classified growths
from Graves/Pessac Leognan, they have a good chance of being admitted,
providing of course that the wine sells for at least as much as the other
already classified Pessac Leognan estates.
Regardless of how you chose to look at the region, for all
intents and purposes, the original 1959 Graves Classification continues to have
merit. The small number of wines involved precludes the rigorous division of
the Medoc, which will be discussed in next week’s blog about Cru Bourgeois.
Here are the producers that are on the 1959 Graves
Classification:
Chateau Bouscaut Red & White
Chateau Carbonnieux Red & White
Chateau Couhins White
Chateau Couhins-Lurton White
Chateau de Fieuzal Red
Chateau Haut-Bailly Red
Chateau Haut-Brion Red & White
Chateau La Mission-Haut-Brion Red
Chateau La Tour-Haut-Brion Red
Chateau La Tour-Martillac Red & White
Chateau Laville-Haut-Brion White
Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere Red & White
Chateau d'Olivier Red & White
Chateau Pape-Clement Red
Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Red
Domaine de Chevalier Red & White
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