It is spring time, and that means the annual return of the California Family Winemakers event in Southern California. This year, it was once again hosted at the Del Mar Fairgrounds. The event is both a trade and consumer tasting, with an opportunity to not only meet the owners, winemakers, and distributors, but an opportunity to taste their wines. The gathering is also an opportunity to meet some of the smaller production wineries, alongside larger producers. This year seemed like there were less wineries participating. By my count there were 79 wineries in attendance, as well as cheese and bread stations sponsored by Kerrygold and LaBrea Bakery.
As in my past attendance, there is no way to get to every winery, so I had a list of certain wineries I wanted to meet with. With my recent wine tasting trip to the Sierra Foothills, I wanted to meet with those wineries, as well as the newest wineries to join the event.
As some of you are aware, for the last 13 months, I have been working with some business partners to acquire a restaurant. My original intent was to attend this event for the purpose of developing our wine list. Unfortunately, somethings just don’t work out. Our restaurant purchase fell through at the last minute (real disappointment after such a long process). So, once again, this year I attended as a media representative. As such, I was able to enter two hours before the general public.
My first stop was a C.G. D’Arie winery. I had visited their winery in the Shenandoah Valley last fall, and really enjoyed their wines. I was hoping to meet Chaim Gur-Arieh, in person, but he was attending another event. I did have a good conversation with his Southern California distributor, and tasted some wonderful wines. My favorites are still their Zinfandels, but they make very nice Barbera, Tempranillo and Syrah. Based on their recommendation, my next stop was with Vino Noceto winery.
Vino Noceto is also located in the Shenandoah Valley, of Amador County. The winemaker, Rusty Folena, was pouring wines. His tasting consisted of Barbera, Zinfandel, and Sangiovese. The focus here is on Sangiovese. They even call themselves “California’s Sangiovese Specialists”. They produce seven different Sangiovese wines, from different clones of the grape. Each wine was distinct. This winery is definitely on my list for the next visit to the Sierra Foothills.
Englemann Cellars. Bret Engelmann, the owner/winemaker was a first time attendee. What caught my eye was where his winery is located: Fresno, Ca. When I think of this area, I think Thompson Seedless, and raisin production. I guess I’ll have to rethink this area. Bret was pouring Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and his Bordeaux style blend (Cab Franc, Cab Sauv, and Malbec). His Malbec had a spiciness to it, that was more reminiscent of a French Cahors, but without the same earthiness. His Clark Ranch Zinfandel was nice and jammy.
Hawk and Horse Vineyards, from Calistoga presented a couple Cabernet Sauvignons, but what excited my palate was their dessert wine. This was a dark, concentrated wine with aromas of chocolate, cassis and cherries. Nicely balanced.
Pinot Noirs of the tasting came from another first time attendee: O’Connor Vineyards. Here we tried three different vintages from the Green River area of the Russian River Valley. They are extremely small production, only about 300-400 cases per year. Their wines are more Burgundian in style, versus most California Pinot Noir. They are light, with nice acidity. The nose has some nice notes of cherry, spice and a bit of earth. For me, the 2014 vintage was the favorite.
We bounced around to a few other wineries, and then met Herve Brukert, owner of De Novo Wines, out of Oakland, CA. Unlike some of the other winemakers in attendance, they do not own any vineyards. They purchase all their grapes. We tried a mix of Cabernets, and Pinot Noirs. We learned that Herve has a cousin in Alsace, France, and he imports wines for his cousin. Because this was a California wine tasting, he wasn’t allowed to pour the Riesling….but somehow, I was able to get a taste. Pretty nice.
We ventured around some more and tried the huge wines of Keenan. If you like big Cabs, and Merlots, this is your winery. Another was Greyscale Wines. Here we met Jean and Larry Rowe, the owners. If you like the “dusty” flavors of Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, then try their 2014 Cab. Very nice wine, and nice people too.
Following an afternoon of tasting, we headed down to San Diego, where we had dinner overlooking the ocean. Not a bad way to spend a rainy spring Sunday.
On Friday, we did wine tasting in Lodi, and Saturday we were in Calaveras County. Sunday is the day that everyone is on their own during our wine tasting treks. Many had to be back at work on Monday morning, so they headed out on the road for the 7 hour drive back to Southern California. We, on the other hand, headed northeast to Amador County, to do some tasting in the Shenandoah Valley.
Officially, the name of the AVA is California Shenandoah Valley. The AVA was established in 1983, and it includes portions of Amador county and El Dorado county. This is California gold rush country, but now probably better known as Zinfandel and Barbera country. The Shenadoah Valley is the lowest elevation region, in the Sierra Foothills AVA, and is also the westernmost. There are over 40 wineries in the Shenandoah Valley.
From Lodi, the drive to Amador only took about 45 minutes. We wound our way through rolling hills covered with oak trees. As we approached the town of Plymouth, we saw signs of new housing sub-divisions, touting wine country living. We turned off of Hwy 49 and made our way onto Shenandoah Road. The country road winds through the foothills, and wineries are easily accessible on both sides of the road. These wineries are generally smaller than what we encountered in Lodi and even in Calaveras County, if you judge them by their parking area. Most of the tasting rooms were smaller, and any thought of bringing a large group in for a tasting would be a challenge. Matter of fact, a couple of the wineries had signs saying, “No buses or limousines”.
|Gardens at Young's|
At the recommendation of friends, the first stop (and the first winery you come to on Shenandoah Rd) was Young’s Vineyard. As you approach the tasting room, you can’t help but wander the garden area interspersed with lawn chairs and picnic tables. The tasting room is small, but we were the only four people in the room. We were greeted and went through a lineup of wines. As another small group came in, our pourer moved over to them, and we continued our tasting with the owner. She never introduced herself, but she had a European accent, and we were told (later) that she was the owner. The wines are mostly reds. We did have a Riesling and a Rose, but this is red country. They produce about 3,000 cases. The wines are full bodied, fruit forward wines. All have interesting, artsy labels. We purchased the 2014 Barbera and the 2014 Reserve Cabernet (which needs to age another 4 to 5 years).
|Tasting room at Youngs|
As I typically do, I had asked the owner what winery we should go to next, and she suggested Jeff Runquist Wines, just up the road. This winery has a larger parking area, and it was a good thing, as they have a club member event going on that day. The tasting room was packed. The winery produces 22 different red varieties from 9 different AVAs. They do not grow their own grapes, so don’t expect to see their vineyards. No white wines here… Zinfandel, Barbera, Syrah and Petit Sirah are the main focus, but we also found Sangiovese and Petit Verdot. All the wines are fruit forward, and rich. We purchased the 2014 Cooper Vineyard Barbera and2014 Esola Vineyard Zinfandel. More on the Cooper Vineyard below.
|Tasting at C.G. Di Arie|
Another recommendation was C.G.Di Arie Vineyard and Winery. We backtracked a bit and pulled into the small parking lot. Once again, we were the only people in the tasting room. Our pourer gave us the entire history of the winery, and the winemaker. The back stories are always the fun thing about tasting at a small winery. This one was really interesting. Chaim Gur-Arieh made his money as a food product developer. His claims to fame are Cap’n Crunch cereal, Hidden Valley Ranch dressing, and Power Bars. I can’t tell you how many different wines we tasted here. It had to be at least 15. Many weren’t on the tasting list, but happened to be open and sitting in the tasting room cooler. This was one of our “finds” of the weekend. They had a number of special discounts available, and they were not just for wine club members. We took advantage of the ½ priced 2007 Zinfandel, and split a case with our friends, as well as the 2007 Petit Verdot. At a local wine tasting event, back home, I brought a bottle of the Zinfandel for the tasting, and it was picked as the best wine of the evening. Stop at this winery if you are in the area.
|Entrance to C.G. Di Arie|
By this time, we were getting hungry, so we stopped at VillaToscano Winery. Our friends are wine club members there, so we stopped to pick up there club shipment. The lunch choices were tasty, and the outdoor picnic area is very nice. This is one of the largest wineries in the area, with a large tasting room, and extensive gift shop. The grounds and building do look like something out of Tuscany.
|Tasting Room at Cooper|
The next recommended winery was Cooper Vineyards. I mentioned their vineyard above, as one of the suppliers for Barbera. We parked along the dirt circular drive, overlooking vast vineyards on all sides. We happened to pick the tasting bar where Dick Coopers daughter, Jeri, was pouring. We soon learned that Dick Cooper was known as the “Godfather of Barbera”. The family has been farming in the area since 1919. Most of the wines are dry reds, but don’t miss the two dessert wines they offer too. All the wines are outstanding, and this was our second “find” of the weekend. If you like Barbera, then you have to stop here. We purchased the 2013 Barbera, 2013 Sangiovese, and the 2014 Grenache. All estate grown, and all very well priced.
|Photo credit to winesandvines.com|
We left Shenandoah Valley and drove to the old gold rush town of Sutters Creek. This was like a step back in time. I had received a message on Facebook, from a winery who follows the Sommelier Update page. One of the owner’s sons saw that I was going to be in the area, and suggested I stop by, so I did. Bella Grace Winery is a family owned winery with a tasting room located in a building from the 1860’s. They offer a mix of sparkling, whites, rose, and reds. They also have a quaint gift shop with olive oils, vinegar and animal wine pour spouts. We purchased the 2012 Barbera and 2013 Old Vine Zin.
|Rosewood Bar & Grill|
As our weekend was coming to an end, we drove back to Lodi, and then headed out for our final dinner in the refurbished downtown area of Lodi. I small group of us met at Rosewood Bar & Grill, and shared our different tastings throughout the area (some stayed in Lodi and explored the local wineries there).
The next morning we had breakfast at the Omelet House, then hit the road back to Southern California. I said it in one of my previous blogs about this trip….don’t discount Lodi, or the Sierra Foothills. While they don’t get the press that Napa, Sonoma or Paso Robles get, this is a legitimate wine tasting region!
|Twisted Oak Tasting Room|
Saturday morning, in Lodi, started with breakfast at the Wine and Roses Hotel. Our wine group consisted of 22 people. The planning began six months prior. While Lodi is a large wine region, with a lot of wineries (see last weeks blog), the services to cater to wine lovers is still building. I hired Neumann Limo services, out of Sacramento, to take our large group to the wineries I had selected in the Sierra Foothills. Today we traveled to Calaveras County and the Sierra Foothill communities of Angels Camp, Vallecito and Murphy’s.
Probably best recognized as the location for Mark Twain’s famous frog jumping contest, Calaveras County is part of the five sub-districts within the Sierra Foothills AVA (El Dorado, Shenadoah Valley, Fairplay, Fiddletown, and North Yuba). The AVA was established in 1987, and was recognized for it’s rolling hills, moderate climate and elevation (averaging about 3,000 feet above sea level).
We left Lodi and drove through miles of rolling hillsides, covered with grape vines and oak trees. Along the 90 minute drive, we passed small rural towns that looked like they were straight out of the gold rush days in the mid to late 1800’s. Our first stop was at Twisted Oak Winery. They are a small, family owned, boutique winery in Vallecito. When I arranged the tasting, I had talked with the owner, Jeff Stai. He had warned me that there were two entrances to the property: one along a dirt road; the other paved. Our limo bus driver was familiar with the property, and chose to drive the dirt road. Now they’ll tell you that the name of the winery came from the twisted oak at the end of their parking lot, but I think it also reflects their twisted sense of humor. As we drove up the road, we passed through the “Rubber Chicken National Forest” and saw numerous signs posted along the road preparing us for the journey ahead..
|Entrance to Cave at Twisted Oak|
Ironstone Winery. As we drove to the front gate, there was a welcome sign for our group. The property is immense. But, we had no idea how immense until we took the one hour tour of the property. The creeks, wedding grounds and amphitheater were impressive. The large caves built into the mountain side offered a cool respite from the growing heat of the day. They also have a Gold Rush Heritage Museum on the property, that includes a 44-pound gold nugget. The tasting room is huge too. The tasting bar is comes from an old saloon, and was originally built in 1907. Our group of 22 people easily fit at the bar.
|The tasting bar at Ironstone|
The next stop on our tour brought us back into the town of Murphy’s. The town grew out of the gold rush in 1848, when brothers, John and Daniel Murphy established a trading post and gold mining operation. Now the town has numerous small shops, 20 wine tasting rooms and craft brewing houses.
Newsome-Harlow has a unique flavor profile that is different from the previous wineries we had visited in the area. After some discussion with Scott, we determined that the difference might be due to his use of natural, local yeasts. This gives the wines a more “terroir” driven profile. This is Zinfandel country, and Newsome-Harlow makes some good ones. Add Syrah, Petit Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and you have an idea of the tasting. These are serious wines, for people who like wines that are small production, and not manipulated. If it is any indication, the most wine purchased by our group was at Newsome-Harlow. A great find, and really nice people.
It was now about 4:30 and we headed back to Lodi, arriving at 6:00pm. After unloading the limo bus, and separating out all the purchases everyone made, we headed back to our rooms for a short break before going out to dinner. Our dinner this evening was at Fenix, in Old Town Lodi. The original downtown area of Lodi has been completely redone. The store fronts and sidewalks make you feel like you are back in an Andy Griffith show, walking through downtown Mayberry. The Fenix restaurant, on the other hand, is like being at a trendy place in downtown San Francisco. This is contemporary American Cuisine, served in an eclectic atmosphere. The menu is creative and beautifully presented. Chef Richard Hyman walked through the restaurant and spent time at each table.