Pinot Blanc...or is it?

I recently held a wine tasting that included some wines from the French region of Alsace. This AOP is unique in France, in that it is the only region to put the grape variety on the label. This has to do with the heavy German influence in the area. Germany traditionally has labelled wines by the variety. France on the other hand, has always labelled by the growing region. So, when you purchase an Alsace Riesling, you know you are getting a Riesling. And, when you buy a bottle that says Pinot Blanc, you are getting…..well, maybe not what you think.

Pinot Blanc

Pinot Blanc is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is an unstable grape variety that can easily mutate. When it mutates and produces white grapes, it is known as Pinot Blanc. It can also mutate in a grayish-blue colored grape that is known as either Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio (if you are in Italy).  In Alsace, Pinot Blanc is not considered a "grand cépage" or “great grape”. Its’ main use is in Edelzwicker (a blend of grape varieties) and Crémant (the name for sparkling wine, outside of Champagne).  If a wine is labelled as Pinot Gris, in Alsace, then the bottle will contain 100% Pinot Gris. When a bottle is labelled as Pinot Blanc, the story is different. It is confusing. The designation for Pinot Blanc, in Alsace, does not necessarily mean that the wine is 100% Pinot Blanc. Matter of fact, it could be 100% Auxerrois, and still be labelled as Pinot Blanc.

The difference is that Pinot Gris is a "true" varietal designation in Alsace, or “grand cépage”. The designation for Pinot Blanc means that it is a white wine made from Pinot varieties. Under the Alsace appellation rules, the varieties can include Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Pinot Gris and even Pinot Noir (as long as it is vinified white, without skin contact). The most common Pinot Blanc blend is Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois. The reason why Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois are treated together is that legally, Pinot Blanc is a term that includes Auxerrois (but not the opposite).  If you want 100% Pinot Blanc, then the label might state “Clevner” or “Klevner”.

Auxerrois

Auxerrois is a white grape. DNA testing has shown that it is a cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir, the same ancestry as Chardonnay. Auxerrois has more body than Pinot Blanc. It is generally lower in acid (except when grown in the cooler northern region of Bergheim, where it develops a crisp character), and has a nice citrus flavor. But, it is mainly known for its’ spicy, smoky, and almost perfumy character.

Almost always, Pinot Blanc wines are a blend of Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois. The fresh acidity of Pinot Blanc melds with the spicy, full-bodied character of Auxerrois. The final product produces a wonderful balance. While the nose is not as fragrant as some of the more famous wines of the region, these dry white wines make for great sipping wines, as well as the perfect accompaniment for food.  It is perfect on the buffet table, and goes well with everything from smoked salmon, to Thai and Italian dishes.

Alsatian Pinot Blanc is one of those wines that you can drink right away, or even cellar for a few years. It holds up well, but not as long as Riesling or Chardonnay. 

The night of the tasting, I served the 2013 Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc. This blend was 65% Auxerrois and 35% Pinot Blanc, and was picked as one of the nights’ favorite wines.

If you are looking for something that is different from the everyday Chardonnay, or the lighter Pinot Grigio, give Pinot Blanc from Alsace a chance, Surprise your friends with your knowledge about why the bottle says one thing, but what is inside is another. Have fun, and enjoy.

German Wine Pairing Dinner

It has been a few months, but our small gourmet dinner group finally got together for another wine pairing dinner. This time it was my turn to host, meaning I need to come up with the theme, and create the 5-course meal. As the Sommelier in the group, I always have the duty of determining the wine pairing for each course.

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you know the process...all the recipes are researched and made with authentic ingredients (even if we have to import them) and made in the traditional style. In the past we have done Sicily, Spain, Tuscany, Nicaragua, Chile, Norway, Burgundy, to name a few. This night we gathered for a full German Dinner, paired with German wine and beer.

We decided that rather than focus on a specific region within Germany, that we would create a meal that represented Germany as a whole, and with items we could have some fun with. I have always wanted to try cooking a Christmas goose, so the menu was developed around that idea. What follows is a recap of each course, and the wine that was paired.

The goal of our small group is not only to have a great dinner, paired with the perfect wine, but to also learn new cooking techniques. Our first course was the perfect example. While a soft pretzel with mustard may not be a "glamorous" opening course, it was fun and tasty. My friends, Jeff & Lisa took this as their course, and described the process of making a pretzel, plus the challenges of getting the twist...which they gave up on, and created straight pretzels (which worked better for dipping in mustard anyway). I paired this opening course with German Beer. Originally, I had only purchased a lighter Hopfen Weisse (Wheat Beer), but added a Black Lager at the last minute. I found that the original choice of the Hopfen Weisse paired best with this course, enhancing the yeastiness of the pretzels and allowing the German mustard to come through.

For our first "sit down" course, we had a dumpling soup, made by Bruce & Kathleen. The dish is known as Maultaschensuppe in Germany, and is basically a chicken broth, with homemade meat-stuffed dumplings. The dumplings are more like a ravioli, but made in a slightly different assembly process. For this course, I paired a German Rose of Pinot Noir: 2012 Meyer Nakel Rose from the Ahr region.

By this time, the goose I was cooking was not quite done, so we had a bit of a break. I opened a bottle of German Pinot Noir, to sip, as we waited. Due to the cool climate, German Pinot Noirs are very light, with fairly high acidity.

The main course was a 12 pound roasted goose, stuffed with brandied fruit. I served this along with homemade bread dumplings. If you have never tried cooking a goose, let me give you a hint...cook it like a duck, and not chicken or turkey. It is dark meat, very fatty and rich. It can be served medium to medium rare. My recipe said to cook to 180 degrees, but I took it out at 161. Next time, I would take it out at 140, as I felt it was a bit overcooked. It wasn't dry, but I think it lost something with the extra time. The brandied fruit stuffing was very good, as were the dumplings. I went straight for the traditional goose pairing: Riesling. I wanted something with some fruit, but a bit of age. I chose the Dr. Hermann 2006 Spatlese "Herzley" from Mosel. Now, before you question going from beer to rose to red, then to a white, let me explain...this is a full bodied white, and came across much heavier than the pinot noir. The slight sweetness and fruit flavors paired beautifully with the rich goose, and fruit stuffing. This is a classic that everyone needs to try at least once in their life.

Following the European tradition, the fourth course was a cheese course. I had purchased five German cheeses from igourmet.com. All were cows milk cheeses, and two were smoked. They were: Allgau Emental, Smoked Ammerlander, Cambazola, Rauchkase, and German Tilsit. Also on the cheese plate were blackberries, grapes, pecans and dark rye toasts. We paired this with a dark, fruity 2012 Dornfelder from Gerd Ansleman. This was a nice pairing, except for one cheese. The extremely strong and pungent Tilsit was overpowering, and I would leave that cheese out next time.

We ended the evening with  a dessert course of Frankfurter Kranz. My friends, Lauren and Mark created this dessert. It is a "crown cake" with layers of white cake and jam. The smooth, sweet frosting is covered with cherries and candied pecans. I paired this with a wonderful German sweet Riesling cross: 2005 Pfeffingen Beerenauslese Herrenberg Scheurebe. This worked great with the sweetness of the cake. We also ended the evening with Pharisaeer, and strong coffee, mixed with a sugar cube, Jamaican dark rum, and topped with whipped cream. Delicious!

I hope this simple recap of our German wine pairing dinner will inspire you to try one on your own. Either copy our menu, or create your own. Have fun with it. If you can't afford to go to Germany, dress up the table, buy a couple Oktoberfest music CD's and make an evening of it...just like we did!

Easter and Passover Wines

It is Spring time, which for most people in the United States, means spring break, the melting of the snow, and the blooming of daffodils and tulips. For many at this time of year Passover and Easter are are the focus of not only religious renewal, but also family traditions. The tradition of wine with this time of year can be traced back to the last supper (during Passover) where Christ broke the bread, and drank the wine from the chalice, which later led to the Eucharist. Wine has a long history with religion.

The traditional Passover meal (Seder) includes unleavened matzoh as a reminder of the haste with which the Israelites fled Egypt, leaving no time for dough to rise and zeroah, a roasted lamb shankbone.

Easter traditions vary more widely, based on family heritage and history. Many families prefer to attend an Easter brunch after church services. These meals can vary widely in the choices, but some of the most common traditions include hot crossed buns, and hard boiled egg dishes. When it comes to dinners, the traditions seem a bit more focused. Two main courses have been garnering most of the attention in the United States: Roast lamb, and Honey-baked Ham.

When it comes to wine pairings for Passover, the choice is much easier than for Easter. The Passover Seder calls for four glasses of wine, which are consumed during the service to represent the four-fold promise of redemption, with a special glass left for Elijah the prophet. The wine should be kosher, which will limit our choices. Since the main course is lamb, the focus should be on heavier red wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. These are classic pairings for lamb dishes, particularly roasted lamb. While I must admit, my tastings of kosher wines are somewhat limited, I can recommend s few that I have tried: Yarden (from Israel) makes a nice Cabernet Sauvignon, and tow California winemakers: Baron Herzog and Covenant are making both Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Stay away from the Manischewitz, unless you like the taste of concord grapes in your wine glass.

As mentioned, the Easter brunch offers the biggest options, and depends on what the focus is. Egg dishes present their own challenges, since egg yolk coats the mouth. With these types of dishes, we need a palate cleansing wine. Something higher in acid would be ideal, and even better would be a little bubble action to help scrub away the egg film. For this reason, sparkling wines are the ideal choice. Depending on the mix of items offered at brunch, you'll next need to decide if you want a fruitier, fuller wine (Blanc de Noirs) or something with a little more finesse (Blanc de blancs). An more versatile choice might even be a rose sparkling wine. The nice thing about sparkling wines, is that you don't have to break the bank, and purchase the best cuvée de prestige. There are some very nice, reasonably priced sparkling wines. If you can find it, one of the best values is Gruet (from New Mexico, of all places). Even the inexpensive (around $5) Schloss Biebrich Sekt from Trader Joe's is a decent entry level sparkler, and perfect if you are going to also make Mimosas.

As for the Easter dinner, I have already mentioned some choices that work for lamb. The classic pairings are Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. I tend to prefer a bit lower alcohol level with my wines, so I steer towards some of the cooler growing regions, where the grapes' sugar levels don't get so high.

Ham offers a whole bunch of options, and depends on the style of ham you are serving. The classic honey-baked ham is on the sweeter side, so I would go with a dry Riesling. I prefer Alsatian Riesling from France, or German Spatslese with lower sugar levels (read my blog about German wines to help determine sweetness). If you are more of a red drinker, Look for Pinot Noir or even a village level Beaujolais (Gamay). A dry Rose would work nice too.

Other types of ham open the door a little further. Clove studded ham adds some spice that might work nicely with a Gewurztraminer. Ham with pineapple should work well with Chardonnay. Again, if you prefer red wines, try a Rioja (Tempranillo) or even a fruity Zinfandel. And, as stated before, a dry Rose will satisfy both white and red drinkers.

As with all holidays, enjoy your gatherings. Make them special with the proper pairings. And, remember the reason for the season. Happy Easter and Pesach same'ach.

Best Wines for a barbecue

The official kickoff to summer has always been Memorial Day. I have written about summer wines in a previous post, but we have never gone over the best drinks to have on hand for a barbecue (or BBQ). If you haven't pulled the barbecue out of storage, dusted it off, loaded the propane (or stocked up on the charcoal) then this weekend is the time to do it.

I would guess that most of you throw hamburgers or hot dogs on the grill, and down that with an ice-cold beer. Not a bad pairing, but what if you are not a beer drinker? What wines go best with foods grilled over the coals?

If you look back at my article on food and wine pairings, there are a few tips to help you out:

Grilling adds a bitter charred taste to foods. We can take two different approaches to bitterness, 1)match that bitterness with tannic wines, or 2) we can contrast that bitterness with fruitiness.

Some of the more tannic wines are: Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Syrah, and Zinfandel. Notice they are all reds, as white wine does not contain tannin.

When we are looking to contrast, fruity wines can run all over the place. For reds, Gamay is definitely a fruity wine, as are some Pinot Noirs, but they are lighter wines, which might be overpowered by heavy meat dishes. Both Zinfandel and Syrah (particularly Australian Shiraz) can be fruity, with some tannin. White wines can also be fruit forward, but again, a delicate white wine might be overpowered by the meat. I would look for something with a bit more body, that can hold its' own against grilled foods. Riesling is always one of my "go to" wines, particularly for pork and sausages (the fat needs to be cut with some acidity, and Riesling does the job). You can also go to a Chardonnay, or maybe even a Chenin Blanc for Chicken. And...don't forget the Rose! One of my favorite summer wines, that pairs with most everything is a dry rose.

Beware of the barbecue sauce. Remember to add it to your meat towards the end, so it doesn't burn, and if it is spicy, choose a wine with lower alcohol, as the spice and alcohol combination will accentuate the heat.

My top choices for best wines to have on hand for the barbecue:
1. Zinfandel. Go for a lower alcohol (if that is possible) that is younger but with some tannin.
2. Syrah. Go for an Aussie version that is more fruit forward.
3. Rose. I like Bandol, Tavel, or some of the Roses coming out of California (usually Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre or Pinot Noir based)...sorry, not a big fan of the Zinfandel based roses.
4. Riesling. I love a dry version from Alsace, France, or a dry Auslese from the Mosel region of Germany. This is a great pairing with sausages, brats, or hot dogs....and even some pork dishes with fruitier sauces.
5. Beer. How can you go wrong with beer?


One last tip...if your BBQ technique includes marinates, dry rubs and sauces...don't open up your best bottle of wine. Great bottles should be served with simple foods, where the wine can be the star. With barbecue, we want the wine and food to work with each other. Overpowering spices, will over power your wine, and isn't the ultimate joy,  the blending of the two?

What are your favorite/best wines with BBQ?

Noble Grapes

I've used the term "Noble Grapes" over the years, but without much explanation of its' use. What is a "noble grape" and why is it important to know about them?

Noble grapes are a term used to describe the international variety of grapes that are most recognizable for the top quality wine they produce. These varieties have principal growing regions, where they are notable for the expression of the local "terroir", but can be grown in other areas with success. Knowledge of the characteristics of each noble grape variety helps the taster establish a personal relationship with the individual grape and wine. Knowing how it behaves in the vineyard, helps to determine the potential of a vintage (as long as you watch the weather conditions during the growing season).

It is generally accepted (with some argument) that there are only 7 noble grape varieties. For white wines, they are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling. Red wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Syrah. Funny how they are all French! In France, they are referred to as "cépage noble".

As the new world expands vineyard plantings, we are seeing a growth in experimentation, and the list of grapes is growing. Consumer recognition has grown beyond those original 7 noble varieties. So, I would suggest that the following grapes should be added to that list: Whites: Chenin Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris (or Grigio), and Semillon. Reds: Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, Gamay, Grenache, Mourvedre Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo. That would bring our total to 20 noble grape varieties that consumers recognize around the world, as making top quality wines.

I have discussed some of these grapes in previous articles, and have included links to those blogs. At this point, I will concentrate on the original 7 noble grape varieties, and some of their main characteristics:

Chardonnay:
In the vineyard: Early bloom, early ripening, thin skinned.
In the winery: Takes well to oak aging, easily manipulated. Juice is neutral to apple scented. MLF* common.
Notable regions: Burgundy, Champagne, So America, Australia, California
Wine aromatics: Apple, pear, vanilla fig, pineapple, melon, citrus, lemon, honey, butter
On the palate: Cool climate - zesty with med to high acid, medium body & alcohol. warm climate - low to medium acidity, medium to high alcohol with a "round" or "fat" body.

* MLF refers to Malolactic Fermentation

Sauvignon Blanc:
In the vineyard: Late budding and early ripening.Challenging to grow, due to tight bunches and tender skins.
In the winery:Usually avoid oak and MLF to emphasize acidity and natural flavors, but California versions (known as Fume Blanc) have oak aging and some MLF.
Notable regions: Loire, Bordeaux, New Zealand, California, Italy, Chile, So. Africa and Canada
Wine aromatics: Distinct vegetal aromas of cut grass, asparagus,or green pepper, plus fruit notes of honeydew, grapefruit, gooseberry, green fig, and lemon or lime. Some also contain a "cat's pee" and mineral scents
On the palate:High acidity, light to medium body, and medium alcohol.

Riesling:
In the vineyard: Early budding and late ripening. Exceptionally hard wood, small compact clusters
In the winery: Stainless steel fermentation to preserve floral and fruit notes. No MLF. Can stop fermentation for sweeter versions, or ferment dry. Tremendous aging potential
Notable regions: Germany, Alsace, Italy, Austria, Australia, United States and Canada.
Wine aromatics: Young-lemon, lime, peach, minerals, beeswax and flowers. Older - gasoline, petrol. Dessert - apricot, honey, raisins, baked apple and peaches.
On the palate: High acid. Can be dry to fully sweet. Low to medium alcohol.

Cabernet Sauvignon:
In the vineyard: Late budding and late ripening.small, thick skinned berries in loose bunches
In the winery: Long maceration period due to high phenolics. Takes well to new oak, works well in blends.
Notable regions: Bordeaux (left bank), Napa CA, Washington, Coonawarra Australia, Italy, Spain, So .Africa, and Chile
Wine aromatics: Cassis (black current) blackberry, black cherry, mint/eucalyptus, green bell pepper. Oak aging can add smoke, toast, tobacco, and vanilla.
On the palate: Dry. Medium to full tannins, acidity, body and alcohol.

Pinot Noir:
In the vineyard: Buds early and ripens early. Thin skinned, and easily mutates. Delicate and demanding
In the winery: Cold soaking is required to extract color and tannins. Very delicate. Used oak barrels.
Notable regions: Burgundy, Champagne, Oregon, California, New Zealand, Chile
Wine aromatics:Cherry, strawberry, plum, raspberry, gamey, leather, mushrooms, "barnyard funk"
On the palate: High acid and juicy. Moderate tannins, bright red fruit character, silky texture.

Merlot:
In the vineyard: Easy to grow. Early budding and early ripening. Large deep colored berries in loose clusters
In the winery:High pigment, but fragile acids. Takes to new oak. In blends, adds suppleness, color, and richness
Notable regions:Bordeaux (left and right bank) Italy, California, Washington, Australia, So Africa, Chile
Wine aromatics:Black fruit, plums, cherries, fig, brown spices (nutmeg & clove), chocolate, coffee, vegetal (if under ripe).
On the palate: Medium acidity and tannins, rich & supple mouth feel

Syrah:
In the vineyard: Late budding and mid ripening (can be fussy). Fairly easy to grow. cold hardy, but prefers warmth.
In the winery: Very versatile. Works with oak or stainless steel. Often blended. Can be made sparkling, still, fortified or rose.
Notable regions: Rhone, Australia (known as Shiraz), Paso Robles CA, Washington.
Wine aromatics: Raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, plum, black currant, violets,carnations, rosemary, tobacco, black pepper, smoke, leather, bacon, chocolate, eucalyptus (particularly in Australia)
On the palate: Brawny to soft. Moderate acidity with medium to high tannins. Full body.

There is some argument that the focus on noble varieties, at the expense of "obscure" local varieties has hurt the wine industry. I tend to agree. If you haven't seen the movie "Mondovino", you should rent it or buy it. It deals with the globalization of wine. If everyone made Cabernet Sauvignon, wouldn't that be boring? When native vines are ripped up and replaced my these noble grapes, there is a loss of the local expression and tradition. Discovery is part of the wine experience. So, enjoy the noble varieties, but continue to explore and enjoy the thousands of other grape varieties out there.