A Trip to the Santa Cruz Mountains - Part 1

In my last blog, I introduced you to the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, now it is time to visit the region. Every year, I take a group of people wine tasting somewhere along the Central Coast of California. This year the trip was to Santa Cruz, but we stayed in Monterey. The drive is about 6 ½ hours from Southern California, taking Interstate 5 up to Hwy 46, heading into Paso Robles, then up Hwy 101 to Monterey.

Since the drive “forced” us through Paso Robles, we made a quick stop at Barr Estates, to pick up a few bottles of their Petit Verdot, then a quick stop for lunch in San Miguel, at the Country Diner (recommend by Yelp, and a good choice). Before moving on to Monterey, we made another quick stop at San Marcos Creek Vineyard to pick up some Zinfandel, and the newest release of their club wine: “Fling’s First Crush”.

We arrived at the Monterey Beach Resort (now known as Unscripted Monterey). The hotel is the only one in Monterey that is located on the beach. As we found out, it is also very popular for weddings. We sat in the lobby, watching the surf, and keeping an eye on our arriving group of 24 people. Dinner that evening was at Restaurant 1833. The meal was probably the most adventurous dinner of our trip. The food combinations and eclectic menu choices made for a fun evening to kick off the weekend. I would definitely go here again.

Monte Bello Vineyard at Ridge

Saturday morning was the day we were all waiting for…a trip to the Santa Cruz Mountains. I had hired Evan Oakes with Ag Venture tours to guide us to the four wineries on our wish list. We had used AgVenutures a few years back, and were impressed with Evan’s knowledge of the wine region and the local agriculture. This year was no exception. As we drove up Hwy 101, and later Hwy 85, towards Cupertino, Evan pointed out all the crops growing on either side of the highway. Soon we turned west and headed up the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The roads became winding mountain roads only wide enough for 1 ½ cars (or a 24 person bus like ours). We shared the road with many cyclists out for their morning ride. About an hour and half after leaving Santa Cruz, we arrived at our first destination: the Monte Bello Vineyard for Ridge Vineyards.

Ridge Tasting Room

Ridge Vineyards tasting room is located at an elevation of 2,600 feet, and overlooks the southern end of the San Francisco Bay. The Monte Bello Vineyard was originally planted in 1886 by Osea Perrone, and  is home to one of the most iconic Cabernet Sauvignons in California. It was the 1971 Ridge Cabernet that was entered into the “Judgement in Paris” competition in 1976. At that time, the wine placed 5^th in the competition. At that time, the French complained that California wines might have beat them at that time, but California wines couldn’t age in the bottle. Thirty years later, the same wines were blind tasted again. This time, the 1971 Ridge Cabernet came in first!

David Gates, on the left

During our visit to Ridge, we were lucky to have met with David Gates, the Vice President of Vineyard Operations, who works directly with Paul Draper, the renowned winemaker/owner of Ridge. David talked about the most recent harvest, and different vineyards. All this, while we tasted examples of their Chardonnay, Zinfandel, and Cabernet (including the famed Monte Bello). A bottle of their estate Chardonnay, and Monte Bello Cabernet, as well as a magnum of the Lytton Springs Zinfandel, now make a home in my wine cellar.

Savannah-Chanelle tasting room

Our next stop was at Savannah-Chanelle Vineyards. When I scheduled these wineries, I simply looked for the historic wineries, and figured they were close enough to be able to hit quite a few. On the map, they are close together. In reality, getting around is no easy task. The roads are typically deadend roads that require you to retrace your drive, then head up another valley to the next location. The roads are mountainous, narrow, and often covered in fog.

Lunch at Savannah-Chanelle

Unlike Ridge, which overlooked the valley below, Savannah-Chanelle is tucked in a mountain valley, surrounded by heavy forest. The contrast of the vineyards and the pine trees makes for a stunning setting. The winery’s history goes back to 1901 and the establishment of the Pierre C. Pourroy Winery. Today, the historic vineyard house still stands at the top of the hill. It was here that we set out a large lunch spread, and enjoyed the views with bottles of wine and bottled water. The tasting room is located in a large wooden barn, and had three tasting bars. The place was packed with people (the most we saw on all our wine tastings). This may be because the winery is more accessible, being located just outside of Saratoga, and the Silicon Valley.

Our next stop had us heading over to the western side of the Santa Cruz Mountains, to another iconic winery, David Bruce. Dr. David Bruce, a dermatologist who had worked for Martin Ray and then helped crush Monte Bello grapes for Ridge in 1961, before founding his own winery in 1965. Bruce, a Burgundian by heart, took advantage of the cooler western slopes, and planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay at the 2,200 foot elevation, overlooking the Monterey Bay.

Similar to Ridge, David Bruce was also included in the “Judgement in Paris”, but in the white wine category.  The 1973 David Bruce Chardonnay placed 10^th in the tasting. While Chardonnay is still produced at the winery, the focus is certainly more on Pinot Noir. During our private tasting, we tried numerous wines, as well as different vintages. I left with a couple bottles of the 2008 Santa Cruz Mountain Pinot Noir (one signed by David Bruce).

MJA Viineyards

Our final stop of the day was a pick from our guide. We headed back down the mountain towards Santa Cruz, and sat down on the outdoor benches of MJA Vineyards. We were heartily welcomed with “aloha”, and poured numerous wines. A solo guitarist played and sang in the patio. The winery produces two labels: Serene Cellars (Napa Valley) and Davine (Santa Cruz Mountains). Their main tasting room is located in Santa Cruz, and the location we went to is their mountain tasting room, surround by redwoods and pines. Back to the “aloha” welcome…the winemaker/owner also farms Kona coffee, and the laid back approach to tasting, and even serving chocolate covered coffee beans with the wine, made for a fun end of the day.

We left the hotel at 9:15 in the morning. Made it to four wineries, and returned to the hotel at 6:30. For anyone looking to go wine tasting in the Santa Cruz Mountains, I would suggest either staying in Santa Cruz or Silicon Valley. You’ll save yourself some drive time. For us, we like the restaurants in Monterey, and were willing to take a little extra drive time. Speaking of restaurant, our dinner on Saturday night was at one of the finest restaurants in the Monterey area: Passionfish. The focus is on fresh seafood and local produce. The focus is so strong on the food that the management has chosen to only do small markups on the wine. We found wines at half the price of other restaurants in the area. For foodies and win geeks, this was heaven.

In my next article, I will fill you in on the final two daysof our trip to Santa Cruz and Monterey.

Wine Tasting in Santa Barbara County - Part 2

Last week, I shared our adventures in the Central Coast. The first two days were spent with a large group, which really limits where you can go. When I organize these wine trips, I always leave Sunday and Monday for my “wish list” wineries to seek. This list grows, as I met winemakers, and ask for recommendations .Usually, my best “finds” are on Sundays and Mondays. This year was no exception.

Sunday morning started with breakfast at Ellen’s  Danish Pancake House in Buellton. I have found this place to be better than the more well-known places in Solvang, and less crowded. I have often run into winemakers in this place, and the prices are very reasonable.

The previous day, I had been able to connect with Mike Roth, the winemaker at Martian Ranch and Vineyards, and was able to arrange a tasting with his assistant winemaker, Craig Winchester, on Sunday morning. We had heard about Martian from other winemakers, and just happened to have ordered a bottle of “Ground Control” for lunch on Friday. We drove towards Los Alamos, then turned off at Alisos Cyn Rd. The addresses weren't matching up, and we wondered where we were going, then we came across a little martian image along the right side of the road, headed up the dirt road, and there it was. We were the only ones there.

While the name Martian brings images of little space creatures (and they do play this up on their label and in their tasting room), the name actually comes from a combination of the owner’s son’s names: Martin and Ian. All the wines are estate grown, and biodynamic. They also eliminate the use of added sulfur, which means they have to keep everything extraordinarily clean.

We met with the Craig, and he showed us around the crush facility, and their beautiful wooden fermentation tanks, then into the cellar room for some barrel tastings. When we worked our way back out to the tasting room, we tried virtually every wine they make, including some new release Chenin Blanc, Albarino, and Cabernet Franc. All their wines are something special, and I would really keep an eye on these guys. Their wine club is currently just starting up, and as soon as word gets out that their wines are priced between $20 and $35….good luck finding this small production wine. This is your “hot tip” for the week!

After spending three hours at Martian, we traveled north to the Arroyo Grande AVA. We drove through the quaint little town (I have to go back to check out the ice cream store), and arrived at Talley Vineyards. We pulled out the picnic coolers, and sat down for lunch as a classic rock band played tunes in the outdoor grass area. Talley is surrounded by farm land, mixed in with grapevines. Their main focus is on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Next we drove about fifteen minutes further north, into the Edna Valley AVA, and stopped at Sextant Wines, located in the original townsite of Edna. The wines are sourced locally, and from Paso Robles. The wines that stood out for me, were the two dessert wines. Sitting behind the tasting room building is the actual old Edna town site. It seems that most people don’t even realize it is there.

By now, the day was mostly gone, so we headed back to our hotel, then off to dinner at Root 246. The restaurant is located in Solvang, and offers some of the most interesting seasonal cuisine in the area. While most everyone in our group ordered the prime rib special, I stuck with the menu. The appetizer of Lamb belly was followed by the finest pork dish I have ever had. The pork was sous vide, tender but crispy on the outside….absolutely delicious.

Monday we started early, and drove over to Mosby. They produce a number of Italian varietals that many people are not familiar with: Sangrantino, Teroldego, Lagrein, and Dolcetto. These are great food wines, at reasonable prices.

Our next stop was at Standing Sun wines. This winery was suggested by a number of other winemakers. When we arrived, we were greeted by the winemaker/owner, John Wright. He was in the process of rearranging his cellar, so he could host a concert there that evening. John told us that this was a regular happening in his winery, where musicians come in and play. His wine selection was a mix of Rhone and Burgundy varietals.

On our way out of town, we stopped by the Los Olivos Grocery store. They have a large selection of local wines, cheeses, balsamic vinegar, olive oils, fresh bread, and specialty foods.

Hopefully the last two blogs have given you some ideas for your next wine tasting trip in Santa Barbara County. There is a lot to explore, and some great spots that you should check out.

Wine Tasting in Santa Barbara County

The anticipation had been building the entire week. A four day trip to wine country, to do some tasting is always something to look forward to. But this time, it involved a tour bus, hotel arrangements and dinner reservations for 27 people. The California Central Coast, at harvest time, was the destination, and this is a recap of that trip, along with some restaurant and winery hotspots to check out.

Brandon pouring at Dragonette Cellars

On Friday, we arrived at Los Olivos, the Santa Ynez AVA. While waiting for friends to show we decided to stop in one of the many tasting rooms located in this quaint little town.  This small town of a little over 1,500 people boasts more than 40 wine tasting rooms, all lining Grand Avenue, and the adjoining side streets. Park your car and taste!

We stopped first at the Tensley tasting room. Where they are known for their Pinot Noir, Syrah, Grenache, and Chardonnay. They are a small producer, making only about 4,000 cases a year. Located in the same building is Carina Cellars (also partially owned by Joey Tensley). Carina Cellars was more Rhone oriented, serving Viognier, Syrah blends (similar to Cote du Rhone).

John Dragonette

Our friends soon arrived, and we walked down the street to the Los Olivos Café. Not only do they have a very nice menu, but their wine selection is outstanding. Not only local wines, but wines from all over the world. The first “find” of the trip was a bottle of Grenache that was ordered with lunch. It was a Grenache from Martian Vineyards, called “Ground Control”. We had never heard of this winery, but were intrigued. Little did we know, we would encounter this bottle in a couple days (more to follow in next week's blog).

Barrel Tasting at Dragonette Cellars

We checked into the Buellton Marriott, which is nicely located for access to all the wine growing regions in this area. Just up the road, our entire group gathered at the new winery for Dragonette Cellars. Those of you who follow this blog, know that this is one of my favorite wineries in the area, and I have been a fan of their wines since I "discovered" them about six years ago. Our group had the fortune to meet with both John Dragonette and Brandon Sparks-Gillis, who shared time talking about their wines, their vineyards, and production methods. We barrel sampled a few wines, and also tried some pre-release Sauvignon Blanc Grassini, as well as some freshly pressed Grenache Rose, that had yet to start fermenting. As I do with all winemakers, I asked if there were any up and coming wineries we should check out. The response: Martian Vineyards, and Roark Wine Company. Brandon shot off an e-mail to the winemaker at Martian, and eventually I had an appointment to meet on Sunday. We weren't able to connect with Roark, so next trip they will be on the list.

Dinner this first night was at Sides Hardware and Shoes, in Los Olivos. Located in a historic old hardware store, built in 1901, this restaurant offered a varied menu, to satisfy everyone’s palate. The wine list offered most wines by the glass, and the corkage was only $15. I can’t speak for the others, but my lamb with goat cheese gnocchi was delicious. However, the talk of the evening was one particular dessert: Blueberry upside down cake.

Sogno del Fiore

Saturday was another organized day of tasting. Now that we had the full group in attendance, I hired Wine EdVentures to shuttle us to the four tasting locations. Notice that I didn’t say “wineries”. That is because our first stop was actually a wine club. Sogno del Fiore is something new…a wine club, a wine estate, a wine location (video). While they do grow grapes here, their main purpose is their wine club. We met with owners, Jerry and Liz Fiore, who conducted a tasting of various wines, purchased for their wine club members, along with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. What is unusual about their club is that they offer up to villas, in the vineyard for club members to rent. Depending on your membership level, the use of the villas includes free night stays.

Feliz Noche Tasting with Don Felipe

Our next stop took us to a large oak tree, in the center of the Oak Savanna Vineyard (video). There was a table set up, some case of wine stacked behind it, and that was it. Within a few minutes a pickup truck traveled down the dirt road, and out steps Felipe Hernandez. The locals refer to him as Don Felipe, in recognition of his over 40 years working the vineyards in the Santa Ynez valley. Don Felipe works as a wine consultant to numerous vineyards, including Koehler. His personal label is Feliz Noche Cellars.  He produces very limited (100 cases or less) production wines. His Grenache had one of the most distinct red cherry flavors I’ve tasted, and his unusual blend of Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Grenache (known as “Mi Passion”), was a hit (video). The wines are pricey, and they are hard to find. Could this be the next “cult wine” from Santa Barbara County?

Alma Rosa Tasting

Next we moved on the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, home of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The first stop was at Babcock Winery. This is a larger production winery, producing over 10,000 cases. It sits up on the eastern slope, and overlooks the valley below (video). From here, we moved to the other side of the Sta. Rita Hills, and visited the Alma Rosa Winery.  When Richard Sanford left his namesake winery in 2005, he started up the Alma Rosa Winery. Known for their organically farmed Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, we also tried some Vin Gris Rose, and Pinot Blanc. This is a quaint little tasting room, tucked back in the trees (video).

After returning back to the hotel, and a quick dip in the hot tub, we were ready for dinner at one of the newest restaurants in the area: SYKitchen. We were pleased to have John and Mitchie Dragonette join our group for dinner, were we tried a little of everything. The Octopus salad was fantastic, and the braised beef special was outstanding. This little farmhouse restaurant also boasts a knowledgeable Sommelier to help you pair your meal, and the prices were very reasonable. We also had our first "star sighting" when Jim Messina showed up for dinner.

Oak Savanna Vineyard

So, by the end of day two, we had been to a total of seven wine tastings. As has been our experience, the Sunday/Monday tastings tend to be the most exciting. On my next blog, I will complete the last two days of our trip.

Valle de Guadalupe

As we approached the border crossing, the fear began to set in. Within a few hundred yards of crossing, we encountered a full-on cartel battle. Thinking quickly, we turned down a side street, and got out of there as fast as we could. But, where was the highway? After a few turns, we were lost. Fear was now really setting in, as the locals began to gather around our car. Kidnapping crossed my mind. Could this really be happening, or was it a dream? These are the images that most people have of entering Mexico. Nothing even remotely close to this happened. It had been at least 30 years since I last drove to Mexico, so I wasn't really sure what to expect.

Sunset at Poco Cielo

We got our Mexican auto insurance, and headed to the border. Expecting a long line to get in, there wasn't a single car in front of us, and we drove right on through. Within three hours of leaving my home, I was in Rosarito Beach, having lunch with a friend, at a tiny little taco shop that the locals refer to as "Juniors". The toll road is definitely the way to go. For only $2.40 we were able to zip past the largest city in Baja (Tijuana) and drive right on down the coast. We drove the old (free) road from Rosarito, to our hotel, so we could check out the coast, and the little communities along the way. Checking into Poco Cielo, we were greeted by the owner Cheryl, who took us to our ocean view room. This little hotel is located right on the ocean, and a number of the themed rooms have ocean views. We stayed in the new "Western" themed room. That night, we ate dinner at the hotel, with the guitar playing, and the ocean waves gently hitting the shore. (video from Poco Cielo)

The next day started with a quick breakfast, then we headed down the toll road to Valle de Guadalupe, the heart of the Mexican wine country. After another toll of $2.40. we turned inland, just before Ensanada. Hwy 3 led up the hillside of an east-west positioned valley. The dry terrain didn't change much as we gained about 1,000 feet in elevation. We entered the little town of San Antonio de las Minas, and saw our first signs of a grape growing community. The maps we had were dated back to 2003, so our first stop was at the Museo de la Vid y el Vino (Museum of Vine and Wine), to see if they had anything that was updated. The maps were free, and to enter the museum, was only 50 pesos/person. This was one of the nicest buildings we had seen in Baja, and they have done a nice job of chronicling the history of wine in the country. The only issue is that everything was in Spanish. With my limited Spanish vocabulary, I was able to figure out most of the information. (video from the back of the museum)

Entrance to L.A. Cetto

With our new map in hand, we traveled first to the northeast end of the valley, just past the little town of Francisco Zarco. We turned down the dirt road, bordered on each side by vineyards. The area is very hot and dry, and most of the vines looked very stressed. There is a riverbed that runs through the center of Valle de Guadalupe, but locals told us that it hasn't had water in for at least 10 years. We pulled up to L.A. Cetto, one of the first wineries in the area. This is a large operation, and (from what we could tell) the most commercially successful. Two tour buses were there. They had a full gift shop with shirts, wines. glassware and cheeses. The tasting fee was $5/person to try four of their reserve wines. The favorite was the Don Luis (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec). However, since we are limited to only 1 liter of alcohol, per person, to bring back across the border, we didn't purchase here. The Valle de Guadalupe is not very big, so if we didn't find something better, we could always come back. (Video from L.A. Cetto)

Next we headed back down Hwy 3, and then branched off to a parallel road  (Hwy 1 according to the maps, but I'm still not sure if that is the right information). Driving through these little towns, you see the poverty of Mexico, and then you turn down a side road, drive a ways on the dirt road, and come up to a fancy new winery (Vinicola). There is a dichotomy in the Valle de Guadalupe between the "haves" and "have nots".

Lakeside tasting at Monte Xanic

We next stopped at Monte Xanic, for an outdoor tasting alongside their "lake". No tasting fee here, but then again, you only get a taste of their "standard wine". If you want to try their reserve wines, you need to make an appointment. We found similar situations at Chateau Camou and Adobe Guadalupe (both were only open to those who had appointments). Next, upon the recommendation of a friend, we traveled up the northern side of the valley to Las Nubes. This is an ultra modern winery, overlooking the entire valley. As of this visit, they have not produced wine from their own grapes (the vines are too young). Very nice Grenache, Nebbiolo, and Carignan. we picked up a bottle of their "Cumulus". (Video from Las Nubes)

Las Nubes Winery

Baron Balche was the next stop. Outside, the temperature was getting hotter, and the humidity was picking up (tropical storm Ivo was passing through). Baron Balche has a gravity fed facility, and the lower floors are all underground. The cooler temps in the cellar room, and the tasting rooms was comfortable. Most of the people in this winery did not speak English, so we were a little challenged, but as luck would have it, there was a taxi driver, hosting some German tourists, who spoke perfect English and did some translating, which led to some long discussions, and eventually some tastes of their $120/bottle Grenache, and their Grenache based dessert wine. Yes, I did write $120/bottle. It was good, but I wasn't about to pay that price.

Pijoan Tasting room

Our last stop for the day was at Pijoan. This is a quaint little winery on a small knoll. Three dogs wandered in and out of the wine tasting room. Here we had a very nice tasting, along with some local cheeses. In addition to the regular wines, we were able to get some additional tastings including a very nice dessert "port". We would have bought a number of their wines, but we had already purchased the maximum we could bring across the border. Next time!

There was another American couple in the tasting room, and the conversation turned to restaurants in the area. They had eaten at Laja the night before. An eight course meal that they said was extraordinary. This night they had reservations at Hacienda Guadalupe. The tasting room manager also recommended his favorite seafood restaurant in Ensenada, Muelle Tres.

Valle de Guadalupe from Las Nubes Winery

Most of the wineries close between 4:00 and 5:00, so we had run out of time for this trip. We headed back down the road, and reconnected with Hwy 3. Here we noticed the fruit stands, wine & cheese shops, and local restaurants that we missed on our way into the valley. Since we were so close to Ensenada, we drove into town to see if I could find Hussong's Cantina (the home of the original Margarita). Last time I drove to Ensenada, Hussong's was on a dirt road in the outskirts of town. Now it is in the center of town, and surrounded by large, loud tourist bars. Still, I found it with no problem.

Poco Cielo

So, we didn't get kidnapped, or mugged, or caught in a cartel shootout. The biggest danger we had was finding too many good wines, and no way to get them back to the U.S.  Other than the limited amount of wine, the biggest "hassle" of the entire trip was crossing back into the U.S. The wait at the border was 90 minutes, and some serious questioning from the border patrol.

Barrel art at Baron Balche

Is Valle de Guadalupe the "Napa of Mexico"? For Mexico it probably is. For someone who has tasted wines in Napa, or even Paso Robles, there is still a long ways to go, but they are on the right track. You should visit it now, because twenty years from now, you may not recognize the place. Then again, it may stay the same, as the growth in vineyard land is limited by the lack of water. New wineries are having to import their own water. What is sure to improve is the infrastructure, the restaurants, the shops. Money is flowing to the area, and it is bound to change. I look forward to going back, soon...there are over 60 wineries to still check out, restaurants to try, and cheese shops to visit.

Hasta Luego!