Chilean Dinner and Wine Pairing

Every few months, we get together with friends and put together a gourmet dinner, based on a country, or cuisine, chosen by the host. This time around, it was my turn to host, and since my wife and I recently spent a few weeks in Chile (trip recap here), we decided to give Chilean Cuisine a go.

Since Chile is located in South America, most people would expect something similar to Mexican food, but you would be wrong.  There is a strong influence from traditional Spanish cuisine, but it is mixed with local ingredients, and more importantly, the influences of European cuisines, particularly from Germany, Italy and France. When we traveled to Chile, we experienced fresh fruits and vegetable, an array of seafood and meats. 

Chile and Peru have a long running argument over who is responsible for the potato. I will stay out of the argument, but will attest to the prevalence of the potato, particularly in the south around Chiloe. In the north, we experienced quinoa in multiple forms, but the most unusual was puffed quinoa. Corn, known as “choclo” was also abundant.

With the extended shoreline of Chile, seafood was found everywhere. Salmon farms in the Lake and Patagonia districts are very common. Hake was a particularly common fish in restaurants, but rarely found in my local grocery stores. Lamb cooked on a rack, set up around an open fire pit was a memorable tasting experience.

At almost every meal, we were served local “street bread” known as Pan Amasado. I would liken it to hard tack. It was a small, often tasteless roll or biscuit, always indented with the tines of a fork on top. The bread was served with a form of salsa, known as Pebre, and sometimes with as many as three different dipping or spreading sauces.

The goal for this dinner was to create a menu that represented the different regions of Chile. We incorporated all the main ingredients and searched for recipes in a number of Chilean cookbooks. In a few cases, the herbs or proteins were not to be found, or required some searching. But, what resulted was one of our better dinner/wine pairing experiences. And, the total cost (including wine) was only $50/person!

The first course was an appetizer course of seafood items: Merluza Rellena con Pimientos y Coulis de Ceboletta (Hake filled with Piquillo peppers with scallion coulis); and Salmon ahumado en tazas de pepino (Smoked salmon in cucumber cups). Hake was nowhere to be found, so it was substituted with Talapia. This was a wonderfully light opening dish that was paired with the 2013 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc. The couple who made this dish smoked their own salmon and were able to source piquillo peppers for the dish. The wine had a crisp acidity to it, with fruit and mineral notes. It was a nice pairing, particularly with the smoked salmon dish.

Our second course consisted of a traditional ensalada (salad) course: Ensalada a la Chilena (Tomato and sweet onion salad) along with Humitas de Choclo (Corn tamales). For this course, we paired with the 2012 Bodegas Re "Chardonnoir". The salad was pretty standard, but the Humitas required some tamale making skills, as well as experimenting with the consistency of the filling. The couple who were responsible for this course watched a few youtube.com videos to hone their assembly techniques. Additionally, they were able to find Aji pepper paste at a local Mexican grocery store, to keep this dish authentic. The wine pairing was interesting, in that the wine was a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (not unusual for sparkling wine, but this was a still wine).  It had a pink/orange hue to it, and was fairly high in acid, and medium body.  On the nose, there were aromas of stone fruit, tangerine, and minerals. Again, a very nice pairing.

The main course was my responsibility, as the host. Since I don’t have an open pit fire, I resorted to a barbecue to make Cordero a la Parilla con Merquen y salsa menta (Grilled Merquen Lamb skewers with mint salsa). With this, I served Papas Rostizadas (roasted  multi-colored fingerling potatoes). The lamb marinated for about two hours in a yogurt and merquen  sauce. I was able to find the traditional Merquen pepper mix online, and it is worth finding. The lamb was put on skewers alternating with peaches and bay leaves, and slowly grilled, then served with a mint salsa. The fingerling potatoes were simply roasted with garlic and rosemary. With this course, I had two different red wines (I bought both while in Chile): 2011 Errazuriz Don Maximiano and 2008 Casa Silva Carménère Microterroir. Both wines are wonderful examples of what Chile can do. The Errazuriz was their founder’s reserve, and is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, and has the typical Cab notes you would expect: cassis, currant black pepper, and clove, along with firm tannins. In hindsight, I wish I had held this longer, as I think it was still too young. The Carménère, on the other hand was perfect with the lamb. It was a powerful wine with sweet soft tannins. On the nose, black cherry and spice, with a long finish.

The final course was a dessert course, and this couple had more of a challenge, as the recipe really didn’t exist.  We had Tarta de Fruta con Quinoa soplada (Fruit tart with puffed Quinoa) along with Helado de rica-rica (rica-rica ice cream). After some searching, we found puffed quinoa to make the tart crust. The crust was then lined with a layer of chocolate, and filled with custard and fruit. The tart was served with “rica-rica” ice cream. I put the “rica-rica” in quotation marks, because it is impossible to find this herb outside of Chile (if anyone finds it, let me know where). We tried to recreate the flavor of rica-rica by combining rosemary, mint, sage and lemon zest. An unusual ice cream flavor, but it worked. With this course, we made Vaina, a blended drink consisting of Ruby Port, Cognac, Crème de Cacao, eggs, powdered sugar and ice, then topped with cinnamon. These go down too smoothly, so be careful!

There you have it, a four course Chilean dinner, including wine, for only $50/person. And, a fun evening with friends and fine food, made with your own hands. If you want any of the recipes, let me know in the comments section below.

Michael David Wine Dinner

What happens with you put together California wines, and an inspired chef? .....Magic!

John Lee, David Phillips, Carmen Rodriguez

This night, we gathered at the Lake Arrowhead Resort, high in the San Bernardino Mountains. John Lee, the Food and Beverage manager, had informed me that the co-owner of Michael David Winery would be in town, to host a winemaker dinner with the new Executive Chef, Carmen Rodriguez. The Lake Arrowhead Resort is now a Marriott Autograph Collection property. The new Executive Chef came from the Four Diamond award winning, Fuego at La Posada in Santa Fe, New Mexico. On top of that, Chef Carmen was New Mexico’s Chef of the year in 2012. 

Michael David Winery is a family owned business of 5^th generation growers, dating back to the 1850’s in Lodi, California. David Phillips is the co-owner/President, along with his older brother, Michael. The Family has over 750 acres of vineyards that they own, and also purchases from vineyards throughout California. Many of their labels will be familiar to wine drinkers: 7 Deadly Zins, Earthquake, Freakshow, Petite Petit (the circus label), and Icognito. Their quality wines are sometimes passed up (or in many cases, purchased) because of their eye-catching labels and names.

As we gathered in the impressive Magnum Room in the Bin 189 Restaurant, we were offered a glass of Spanish sparkling wine, and the opportunity to talk with David Phillips. We talked about growing grapes in the Lodi region, and how the diurnal temperature changes and the sandy soil make for great wines. Phylloxera hasn’t shown up in Lodi yet, allowing the Zinfandel vines to continue to produce. The Zinfandel vines range from 20 to 118 years old. The Cinsault vines are actually older than 130 years. I know Michael David for their Zinfandels and Petite Petit, but this night, we would experience a full range of their wines. David discussed his wines, and the fact that they have 65 different growers, all following sustainable practices. Of those 65, thirty five of them only grow Zinfandel. Every year, the Zinfandel growers submit their grapes, and each vineyard is fermented individually. All the Zinfandels are blind tasted by the growers (so all 35 taste each other’s wines) and they judge the best. Not knowing whose wine is whose, the winner is picked and that vineyard grower is awarded a bonus. The competition to grow the best grapes, makes for better wine.

This night, we were presented with a 7-course meal, all paired with Michael David wines. The interesting thing to me (which is contrary to what I do as a Sommelier) is that Chef Carmen Rodriguez is not a wine drinker. He paired all the courses based on the winery description of the wines, interpreting those descriptions into his food and sauce choices.

Our first course was a light Grilled Lobster Spring Roll with an Aguadolce drizzle and Wasabi Tobiko. This was paired with the 2013 Michael David Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes were sourced from Lake County, Lodi and Napa Valley (Duckhorn winery). The wine had a nice bright acidity to it, with ripe citrusy fruit flavors. The wine and the grilled lobster worked nicely together, pulling out the subtle caramelization of the lobster. 

Our second course was Chile-rubbed Seared Diver Scallops over micro greens and a fried plantain with a Sherry, Chipotle Gastrique. This was paired with the 2013 Michael David Chardonnay. I was a bit concerned about the potential heat from the chipotle, but Chef Carmen had used three vinegars and butter to create a coating that kept the heat down. The Chardonnay had been handpicked, taking three passes through the vineyard. It was aged in 100% new oak, and about 40% had been exposed to malolactic fermentation. The creamy oak flavors in the wine paired nicely with the butter in scallops.

Our third course had everyone talking, a French Onion Duck Confit Soup, served with the 2012 Petite Petit. This rich soup included a foie gras brie crostini. The rich duck and caramelized onions begged for a heavier wine, and the Petite Petit hit the mark with it’s’ blend of 85% Petite Sirah and 15% Petit Verdot. I have enjoyed this wine over the years, and had always wondered about the label. Upon closer inspection, and guidance from David Phillips, the hidden messages were obvious. First, the label was designed by a Grateful Dead fan, so there are references such as the time on the clock, and the lamp stand (which looks like a bong) throughout. Also, all the wines made by Michael David winery are identified on the label (take a look at the top photo on this blog).

The fourth course was Sweetbreads and crispy pork belly in an herbed wine demi glace. Chef Carmen explained that the sweetbreads were bathed in a milk bath at 97°F, rather than boiled. This was served with the Rapture 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes (90% Cabernet Sauvignon & 10% Petite Sirah) for this wine come from Michael David’s own vineyard, and are aged 18 months in 100% new French oak. This is a deep colored Cabernet with notes of blackberry and hints of cocoa. The tannins were smooth for such a young Cab.

The fifth course was more of a “palette cleansing” course, and consisted of roasted beets, layered with pine nuts and Chevre. Chef Carmen included local honey along with the sweet roasted beets. This was paired with the Ink Blot 2013 Cabernet Franc. This wine really needs to open up. David noted that the wine was released earlier than planned, due to high demand. Even extensive swirling couldn’t get the wine to open up.  Unfortunately, the tightness of the wine was over-powered by the sweetness of the dish. David said that the 2012 Ink Blot would have worked perfectly….but since it is sold out, we may never know.

The main course of the evening consisted of three items plated together, and three wines. The first was a lamb ragout, but not just any lamb. Chef Carmen used Halal lamb. He explained that Halal Lamb is slaughtered with a sharp knife by cutting the throat, windpipe and the blood vessels in the neck, causing the animal's death without cutting the spinal cord. Lastly, the blood from the veins must be drained. This prevents the lamb from having the gamey flavors commonly associated with lamb. My wife, who does not care for lamb, said this was the best lamb she had ever had. The lamb was served on top of a Manchego Polenta, and served with the Rage 2012 Zinfandel. This was my favorite pairing of the evening. This Zinfandel comes from 35 year old vines, and has a mix of spice and fruit, that expresses the terroir of the Dry Creek region. The second item was a Lavender rubbed Venison Tenderloin over Rose Petal Risotto and a Mountain Berry reduction, served with the Gluttony 2012 Zinfandel. The grapes for this Zinfandel come from 85 year old vines located in Amador County. If you read the description of the entrée, then you know the profile of the wine…berries, roses, lavender. The final portion of this course was a Fire-kissed Ribeye with roasted mushroom truffle butter. The ribeye was from Brandt beef, which produces only natural beef (no hormones or antibiotics). This was paired with the Lust 2012 Zinfandel. This wine is produced only from the best Zinfandel lots, and is a big, jammy wine.

We ended the evening with a dessert course of Blood Orange Saffron Cheesecake, paired with the Michael David Symphony. Symphony is a hybrid variety created by crossing Muscat of Alexandria with Grenache Gris. This is not an overly sweet wine, but offered nice aromas of peach and apricot. The moderate plus acidity cut through the creaminess of the cheesecake, making a perfect end for the evening.

A couple takeaway notes from this fine evening…Michael David Winery makes some seriously good wines. Look beyond the catchy wine labels, and enjoy their generations of experience. The second note is that the Lake Arrowhead Resort is back as a powerhouse in wine pairing events, with the excellent skills of Chef Carmen Rodriguez. I look forward to future events. But, you don’t have to wait for an event, check out the Lake Arrowhead Resort for your next vacation getaway, and enjoy a dinner at their restaurant: Bin 189.

Low Country Boil

It is summer time, and what better to do that have a large group of friends gather together in the mountains, for food and wine?  Normally we would have everyone over for a barbecue, and everyone bring some appetizers or side dishes. This time, we decided to something completely different… a low-country boil.

Why a low country boil?  Cleanup is minimal if you skip plates and serve on paper-covered tables. The recipe is simple, and most of the time is spent boiling, not prepping, so you can enjoy time with a large group of friends, while it all cooks. The entire cooking time took just over an hour. Serving is simple too, just drain the boil and pile high where everyone can dig in. Peel, crack, eat and have fun.

The low-country boil is simply a combination of potatoes, corn, onion, sausage and seafood (stick to shrimp, crab, lobster, or crayfish). The best thing is that is serves a large crowd, and in our case, everyone brought their own seafood to add to the pot. Two of us supplied the veggies and sausages, and everyone brought their favorite wine. ..and there was plenty of wine!

Try this recipe for a flavorful, memorable experience.

 Start with a large 10 gallon, stainless steel pot with a strainer. Put this over a large propane burner. Start by adding 12 cans of beer (your favorite), then fill the pot about half way with water, and start boiling. We added 3 bags of Old Bay crab boil, 6 lemons (halved) and 6 onions (quartered). Next, you can add whatever spices you like. This evening, we added 1 cup (more or less) of Cajun spice, ½ cup crushed red pepper, salt, pepper, and “other spices”.

When everything came to a boil, we added about 10 pounds of fingerling potatoes. Shortly after that, we added the sausage. This evening, we used real Andouille sausage, along with Kielbasa and a small amount of hot links (the hot links can really add a lot of heat, so watch how many you use). The Andouille adds a really nice, smoky taste to the boil.

Once the potatoes began to get soft, we added the corn (take the cob, and cut into bite size pieces). After about five minutes, we added the shrimp and crab, and then turned off the heat. Once they were pink, we lifted the strainer out of the pot, and dumped the entire boil onto a paper covered table.

A simple mix of mayonnaise and spicy cocktail sauce was our “remoulade”. This worked great with all the stuff poured out on the table, and worked particularly well with the fingerling potatoes and shrimp. Yummm!

The wine of choice, for the night was Sauvignon Blanc and Rosé, but we also had some nice Gamay, and cool region Pinot Noirs. We even broke out a magnum of fruity Zinfandel.

The evening ended with small pecan hand pies, served with Rancho de Philo Cream Sherry.

I hope you will be inspired to give the Low country boil a try. Thanks to my friends Marty and Stan for guiding us in this gathering. We had been talking about doing this for a while, and we finally did it. Maybe you will too.