Sagrantino

When you think of Italian wine, what comes to mind? Chianti? Brunello? Or maybe the thousands of grapes that most of us haven’t heard of. I have one that you need to seek out, and try: Sagrantino.

If you were to travel east from Tuscany, you would find yourself in the region of Umbria, which has long been thought of as an appendage of Tuscany. Matter of fact, several of the major players in the wine region, have their home base in Tuscany, and the most planted grape is Sangiovese.  But have no doubt, the wines are distinct.

The Sagrantino di Montefalco D.O.C.G. (Italian for “controlled designation of origin guaranteed”) produces 100% Sagrantino based wines, which is one of Italy’s least known high quality red wines. There are less than 400 acres of the variety planted, and some of that is interplanted with Sangiovese. The DOCG was created on November 5, 1992, and applies to dry and passito style sweet reds made exclusively from the Sagrantino grape. The D.O.C.G. requires that the wines are aged for a minimum of 30 months, twelve of which must be in oak. According to wine legislation, the typical cultivation area for Sagrantino di Montefalco includes the Municipality of Montefalco and part of the municipalities of Bevagna, Gualdo Cattaneo, Castel Ritaldi and Giano dell'Umbria, all situated in the province of Perugia. These areas are located in a basin of the Apennine Mountains, which receive warm summer temperatures, moderated by a mix of sea and mountain breezes. The sloping landscape is made up of soil composed of clay and sand, over limestone, and tends to be relatively rich in organic matter.

There is also the Montefalco Rosso D.O.C. which is mostly Sangiovese, but can contain up to 15% Sagrantino. And, there is a small production area known as the Montefalco Sagrantino Passito D.O.C.G., that is worth seeking out, because the quality of the wines is, to my mind, one of the worlds most delightful.

Sagrantino is an Italian grape variety that is indigenous to the region of Umbria in Central Italy. The origins of the grape are mysterious. Some think that it was brought to Umbria by the Greeks, while others say it was brought by the Franciscan friars. But the more “colorful” story has St. Francis of Assisi bringing it from the Middle East to be used as a sacramental wine. And that might be closer to the truth, as it is known that Sagrantino was initially used to make a dessert wine (sacramental wines were typically sweet). But, beginning in 1976, the wines were made in a dry style, and that is how they are primarily produced today.

Sagrantino is a thick-skinned grape. The grape ripens late, but is resistant to both winter and spring frost. Sagrantino is generally harvested by mid-October or even later, to get perfect ripening.  That thick skin translates into powerful, black colored wines, making Sagrantino one of the most tannic grape varieties in the world. The high tannins and affinity for oak mean that it matures particularly well. Since Sagrantino’s tannins are more sweet than bitter, an aged Sagrantino will often develop silky ripe tannins, making them approachable in youth. Remember, wine laws require 30 months of aging before release. These wines can age effortlessly for decades.

Stylistically, these are dark, brooding wines, with intense black fruit flavors (black cherry black currant, and blackberry) with hints of plum, cinnamon, licorice, spice and a certain earthiness.  Depending on the winemaker, the wines can be “jammy” and/or savory, with a quality that some associate with “pine tar”. Sweet AND savory!

As mentioned, a passito style wine is still made in the Montefalco Sagrantino Passito D.O.C.G. These concentrated wines are made from semi-dried grapes (traditionally dried on straw mats). They would be comparable to Vintage Port in their intensity and longevity. The wine is a sweet, syrupy wine with raisin and blueberry qualities. The alcohol content is usually around 16 percent.

Sagrantino is a food friendly wine that matches nicely with most Italian foods: Pizza, pasta, and anything with black truffles. They have the tannins to pair with wild game, braised meats, squab or pheasant, or even a nice steak or lamb. Of course aged cheeses go well too.  Just remember to open the bottle and decant about an hour before serving. They go nicely with pastas or pizza. Add some truffles if available for a great match. Of course, the passito version is perfect with dark chocolate, dried fruits, or just sipping with a fine cigar.

Logo of the Montefalco Consortium

Outside of Italy, Sagrantino has been experimentally planted in Australia, California and Argentina. I have found interesting versions in California’s Central Coast. Mosby is one that comes to mind. But, Montefalco is the true wine.

As a final comment, when I passed my level III Sommelier Diploma exams, the few of us who passed, gathered together to celebrate. Each of us brought food, and a special wine to share. My choice for the celebration was a Montefalco Sagrantino Passito. I had been holding it in my cellar for a special occasion. So, Sagrantino has a special spot in my palate. I hope you will discover one of Italy’s most distinctive and powerful wines.

"Forgotten" grapes of Italy

Last week, I wrote about the Wine Century Club. Since then, I have had a number of people contact me about how to get started. It is actually pretty easy. Download their list of grapes, and start trying wines that contain those grapes. Okay….maybe it isn’t that easy. You really need some background, preferably through wine classes, or local wine tasting clubs. While we are seeing more and more unusual, or forgotten, grapes in the United States, the Old World still has the lock on the availability.

This week, I am conducting a wine tasting of Italian wines. As the president and Sommelier for the Arrowhead Wine Enthusiasts, I get to choose the wines to serve.  Italy offers a never ending supply of forgotten grapes.

Before it was known as Italy, the country was known as Oenotria (due to its’ abundant vineyards). Many of those grapes were brought to the region by the ancient Greeks, and the mysterious Etruscan people (thought to be the refuges of the fallen city of Troy).  There are literally thousands of grape varieties in Italy, but Italy's Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, has only documented a bit over 350 grapes and granted them "authorized" status.  With DOC and DOCG regulations, only a handful of grapes are really known by most wine drinkers. Chianti (Sangiovese), Barolo (Nebbiolo) and Soave (Garganega) are probably the best known.

So, when it comes to Italian wine tastings, the door is open…as long as I can find the wines (not easy). This week, I was lucky. While I still have the “standard” Barolo, I was able to find some less common wines.

Vermentino

Italy isn’t really known for its white wines, other than Pinto Grigio or Soave, but that might be changing. The first wine in my tasting is Cherchi Pigalva Vermentino di Sardegna 2013. This white wine from the island of Sardegna is 100% Vermentino. The color is straw yellow and has aromas of apple and white flower. It is dry and has moderate plus acidity. 

Pigato

The second wine is La Ginestraia Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente 2013. The white wine is from the Liguria region and is 100% Pigato. This is where things get interesting! If you check Jancis Robinson’s reference book, “Wine Grapes”, you’ll find that DNA evidence now shows that Pigato and Vermentino are the same grape. And for those registering their tastings for membership in the Wine Century Club, they are listed as separate grapes. Tasting them side by side, they do taste different. Pigato has more pear, apricot and hazelnut aromas. Is it the terroir or they just different expressions of the same grape?

Susumaniello

There is no argument about two of the red wine choices. For the first red, I am serving a Rubino Oltreme Susumaniello Salento IGT Rosso 2012. This wine is produced from 100% Susumaniello, and is grown exclusively in the southern region of Puglia. Susumaniello has most commonly been used as a blending grape for the better known grape of Puglia: Negroamaro. The wine is ruby red, and has aromas of red fruit: cherry,raspberry and red plum. The tannins can sometimes be a bit rough, but this version has soft tannins, and is fairly elegant.

Pugnitello

The second red wine is Corte alla Flora Pugnitello Toscana 2011. This Tuscan wine is 100% Pugnitello. Since Tuscany is home to the famous Chianti wines, which are made from the Sangiovese grape, it is no surprise that Pugnitello was long thought to be a clone of Sangiovese or Montepulciano, but recent DNA analysis has shown that the grape is its’ own variety. This grape was almost lost, but in the 1980’s, “rescuers” saved the variety, and in 1993, the first barrels of 100% Pugnitello where produced.  Historical evidence suggests that the grapes name comes from the Italian word for “fist” (pugno), the shape of the grape clusters. The wine is deeply colored, with aromas of rich fruit: black cherry, prune, cranberry and hints of clove and tobacco. 

To finish the tasting, I do have to bring in one of my favorite Italian wines, Barolo. The last wine is an Oddero Barolo 2009. I have written about the Nebbiolo grape in the past, so won’t spend time recapping it here.

With a simple five wine, Italian tasting, we have covered five (if you count Nebbiolo) “forgotten” grapes. When you add these to your Wine Century Club list, you will be well on your way to reaching 100 grape varieties. And, hopefully you will find a new variety that will become a favorite.

Prosecco

Wow, what a busy two weeks. Between my son’s college graduation and my 30^th wedding anniversary, I haven’t had time to do much writing. All that celebrating has me a bit behind in my wine writing. 

Speaking of celebrating, I think most will agree that Champagne is usually on order for big events. But what if you don’t want to spend that kind of money? There is always Cava, or Cremant, but I have found that a good Prosecco seems to make everyone happy. It is reasonably priced, and most are well made, and refreshing.

Prosecco is Italy's answer to Champagne. It is made primarily in the district of Valdobbiadene, in the Veneto region.  Unlike other wines in Italy, Prosecco is actually the name of the grape that is used to make the sparkling wine (probably because calling it “Valdobbiadene” would be too much of a mouthful). While the grape was originally known as Prosecco, it is now called Glera. The best examples are made from 100% Glera, but other varieties such as Trevigiana, Verdiso, Perera,  and Bianchetta are allowed in the blend.

Prosecco differs from Champagne in a number of areas. First, it is obviously not made in France, and second, it uses different grapes. But, the biggest difference is in the production method. In a previous blog, I wrote about the Champagne Method. Prosecco is made using the “Charmat” method. Since the grapes used in Prosecco are prized for their delicate flavors and aromas, aging the wine in the Champagne method would ruin the freshness that is so evident in these wines.

The Charmat method consists of a secondary fermentation that takes place in stainless steel tanks, rather than in the bottle (as is the case for Champagne). First, a still wine made from the grapes, and then that wine is put into a pressurized steel tank with specific amounts of sugar and yeast. While in the tank, the yeast and sugar react together to make carbon dioxide, which carbonates the wine. This makes the wine less expensive to produce. Fermenting the wine in steel tanks instead of in the bottle preserves the taste of the grapes, which gives the wine its fresh, fruity flavor, but also means that can't be aged for very long. The rules for the DOCG Prosecco Valdobbiadene also allow the use of the Classic Method (secondary fermentation in the bottle). Unfortunately, the Charmat method is also used to make some pretty bad sparkling wines, so its reputation has been suspect. On the positive side, Prosecco has really improved its reputation with the method, since it started producing dry or even extra dry wines, rather than the sweet wines that were commonly associated with Asti, which is produced in the Piedmont region.

Compared to other sparkling wines, Prosecco is fairly low in alcohol (only around 11 to 12 percent). This lower alcohol makes it perfect for most any occasion. Traditionally, Prosecco was made to cleanse the palate from afternoon espresso, in preparation of dinner. Outside of Italy, it is most often consumed as an aperitif. As with other sparkling wines, Prosecco should be served chilled,  at around 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

The flavor or Prosecco is typically aromatic and crisp. Most notable is the lemony-citrus aromas, and crisp green apple. Secondary aromas of almonds, pear, peach and apricot are also common. The color is usually light-straw, and the bubbles are small, but not as fine as Champagne. Overall, Prosecco is meant to be a fresh and light sparkling wine that is enjoyed within a year or two of the vintage. However, the best Proseccos can age for several years.

For what is considered the “best” Prosecco, look for: Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, Prosecco di Conegliano or Prosecco di Valdobbiadene.  Also the sub-denomination Cartizze (indicating they were grown on the slopes around the village of San Pietro di Barbozza). These are known for their drier, more mineral characteristics. 

If you are looking to pair your Prosecco with food, the crispness of the wine pairs nicely with seafood. The sparkling nature of the wine works as a palate cleanser and is perfect for fried foods, or mouth-coating foods. Think fried calamari, pasta dishes, salads, and again, seafood. Prosciutto wrapped melon is a classic pairing. The refreshing nature of Prosecco also makes is a great summer wine. 

Prosecco is also popular as a Mimosa ingredient, and is famous as a component of a Bellini.

Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris?

What is the difference between Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris? I hear this a lot. To most people, Pinot Gris is a mispronunciation of their favorite white wine, while to others Pinot Grigio refers to a simple wine from Italy. Both would be wrong, so this week, we’ll take a look at one of the fastest growing (in popularity) white wines: Pinot Gris.

Because of the two names, Pinot Gris has a bit of an identity crisis, and that is not the only thing that confuses people. What may come as a surprise to most wine drinkers is that Pinot Gris doesn’t come from a white grape. To look at it on the vine, you would think it should make red wine. In one of my earlier blogs, I had suggested that this grape be included in the list of Noble Grapes. This is due to its heritage, and its ability to make a variety of styles…not to mention that it can be grown in a number of regions.

Pinot Gris is thought to be a mutant clone of the Pinot Noir variety. It has a long history in eastern France, and has traveled throughout Europe before settling into the current growing regions. The word “Pinot”, which comes from the French word meaning "pine cone". “Gris” means gray in French, and comes from the grayish-blue berries that grow on the vine (but the grapes can also have a brownish pink color). 

Recent DNA research has shown that Pinot Gris has a similar DNA profile to Pinot noir and that the color difference is derived from a genetic mutation. The leaves and the vines of both grapes are so similar that the coloration is the only aspect that differentiates the two. Given the close relationship between Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, it is not surprising that the two varieties act in similar ways in the vineyard. The gray version prefers reasonably fertile, mineral-rich soils with good depth and a cooler, temperate climate. In warmer regions, Pinot Gris can produce a flabby, oily texture in the mouth from low acidity combined with high alcohol.  Pinot Gris matures relatively early with high sugar levels. This can lead to either a sweeter wine, or, if fermented to dryness, a high alcohol wine.

Pinot Gris has been known since the Middle Ages and is thought to have originated in the Burgundy region. At that time, it could be found, interplanted with Pinot Noir, and was often blended with the red wine to soften it.  It spread from Burgundy, along with Pinot noir, by the Cistercian Monks, who planted vines in Hungary. Later, it found its way to Germany, where it was known as Ruländer (or Grauburgunder). But the greatest success for Pinot Gris may be in Alsace, France, and in Italy, where it is known as Pinot Grigio. Italy takes the prize for having the most extensive plantings of the grape.

Italy‘s Pinot Grigio is a fixture in the northeast of the country with good, and occasionally exceptional wines, produced in Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino. The Veneto and the Alto Adige are also widely planted to Pinot Grigio, and it is in these regions that great quantities of easy-drinking, inexpensive wine are produced.

The Pinot Gris of Alsace, however, makes a more serious wine, with medium to high alcohol and low to medium acidity. The wines are typically dry (excepting, of course the late-harvested and botrytis-affected wines) but discovering some residual sugar is not at all uncommon.

Just as its heritage might indicate, Pinot Gris is similar to Pinot Noir, in that the terroir has relevance to the final product. There are two dominant styles of wine produced from the grape—one deeply colored and full of body, and one much paler, lighter, and higher in acid. Italian growers typically harvest when their Pinot Grigio is less mature physiologically, before sugar levels get too high and acids get too low. In Alsace, the grape is left on the vine longer, not only to increase sugar and reduce acidity, but to allow for the development of flavors in the grape. Yields, as well, are typically higher in Italy than in Alsace.

Pinot Gris is a versatile grape, capable of making high-quality white wines of varying sweetness levels, of contributing to sparkling wines in some regions, and even of withstanding and improving under the influence of barrel maturation and time. But, the dominant approach to Pinot Gris is to ferment the juice in inert vessels like stainless steel after a careful pressing that is designed to minimize contact between the juice and the skins. Cool fermentation follows, and bottling is done soon after fermentation to preserve the fresh aromas of the wine.

Some producers have strayed from the “standard recipe” to achieve greater complexity, deeper color, and greater potential for ageing. Brief skin contact during pressing can give the wine a deeper color—anywhere from a brassy yellow to a salmon pink. Even barrel fermentation or maturation is being explored, adding aromas we associate with oak and controlled oxidation.

Based on the vineyard methods and winery practices, the aroma of Pinot Gris will vary. Paler and lighter-bodied examples of the wine often display subtle apple or pear aromas while darker, fuller-bodied examples have a much more complex set of aromas including apricot, peach, musk, and honeysuckle. 

Outside of France, Italy and Germany, Pinot Gris has met with mixed results, and though there are plantings in most countries, it is Oregon and California that have had some success.  In Oregon the wines are medium bodied with a yellow to copper-pink color and aromas of pear, apple, and/or melon. In California, the Pinot Gris is more light-bodied, with a crisp, refreshing taste and some pepper and arugula notes.

Pinot Grigio is considered an "early to market wine" that can be bottled and out on the market within 4–12 weeks after fermentation. 

If you like Pinot Grigio, then you might also like Albariño, Silvaner, or Chenin Blanc.