Out of a deep sleep

The Winter is over, and Spring is here. It seems that when the weather begins to improve, I see more people out and about. The long cold winter is over, and we are all coming out of our winter slumber, and ready to move forward into the warmth of summer.

The same is true in the vineyard. Grapevines go through a cycle of slumber, growth, harvest, then slumber. This time of year the vines are in a critical and fragile state. Budbreak and flowering are beginning to take place, getting ready for a new crop of grapes, and ultimately the next wine vintage.

Last weekend (Easter, April 8th) I was up in the Central Coast, and spent some time wine tasting, as well as taking a look at the vineyards, to see where we were in the cycle. So far, this winter, and early Spring, have been pretty dry in California. Even so, the vines have started pulling up water from the earth, preparing for production. "Budbreak" is when the tiny buds on the vine begin to swell and create shoots and eventually leaves, that help the photosynthesis process.

The soil temperature and the grape variety will determine where budbreak will occur first. Warmer soils will encourage earlier budbreak, than those in cooler soils. Even the soil type makes a difference. Clay soils tend to be cooler, and retain more water. These soils will delay budbreak, versus rocky soils which can actually retain the suns energy, and are warmer. Usually, the daily temperature needs to exceed 50 °F

Syrah, just starting to bud

The type of grape variety also has an impact on when budbreak will occur. Some early budding varieties are: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Zinfandel. These are also early ripening varieties. Some early budding, but late ripening varieties are: Reisling, Chenin Blanc, Grenache, and Sangiovese.

On the other end of the spectrum are the late budding varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. Both of these are also early ripening. The best known variety that is both late budding and late ripening is Cabernet Sauvignon.

Obviously, soil, climate, and aspect of the terrain are important factors in determining which varieties are best suited for planting.

The vineyard manager needs to watch his vines. Certain decisions must be made at this time, including the first fungicidal spraying (usually a copper based product). If the vineyard is biodynamic, a entirely different set of decisions will be made. Weather during this time is critical. Frost danger still exists, and once the buds push through, they are at risk of freezing. Last year, a deep frost at this time of year, wiped out about 35% of the central coast crop. So, why not try to delay budbreak? Well, if it occurs too late, the grapes might not have enough time to fully ripen, before the fall rains come, and the grower will be in an uncomfortable position of gambling on longer hang time, or picking unripe grapes, or even worse, loosing an entire crop. Just like this time of year, frost or rain at harvest can also have devastating consequences.

Viognier - with embryo clusters

While in the vineyards, I took a look at different grape varieties, all at various stages of growth. At one stop, there were three different varieties planted next to each other. The Syrah grapes were just beginning to bud. If you look very closely at my photos, you can also see how the tiny buds shown are pink, which is an indicator that bud break has recently occurred. Just across the road (literally 20 feet away) the Viognier grapes have fully budded, and are beginning the embryo bunch stage.

The embryo bunch stage is also a very critical part of the grape life cycle. These small green clusters are going to be the flowers that will eventually become the grapes. These are the first indication of the potential size of the crop. Usually, within eight weeks after budbreak, the tiny embryo clusters develop into flower clusters. Since we are not yet in the full flowering stage (usually some time in May), I will defer the discussion of the flowering stage for another article. But again, just like the budbreak stage, this time of year runs the danger of rain, wind and frost. Additionally, the vines can be affected by coulure or millerandage. All of these can dramatically affect the years' harvest and grape quality.

Everyone is closely watching the vineyards right now. Those of you who live in California know that we have rain and much cooler weather hitting us right now. The storm on Wednesday (April 11th) saw temperatures drop here in Southern California, and Friday's storm is supposed to be larger and cooler. Keep your fingers crossed. The next month or so, is critical to this years' wine vintage.

On the Culinary Backroads of Puerto Vallarta

Why is it, that some of the best food, is found in “hole in the wall” locations, or places you would have never thought of looking? I like to try local, traditional foods, so before leaving for Puerto Vallarta, I did an online search, and came across Arte Culinario on TripAdvisor.com. 

This week, I’d like to share a culinary experience unlike any we’ve done before.

Chef Mavi Graf - Arte Culinario

Arte Culinario offers cooking classes in Puerto Vallarta, but as you’ll see, it is more than a class.

Via e-mail, we arranged for a “class” with Chef Mavi Graf. We were given a choice of traditional or contemporary Mexican cuisine, or International fare. We chose traditional cuisine, as it is my feeling that before you can appreciate contemporary cuisine, one needs to understand the basics from where it came.

We were given a series of suggestions for traditional Mexican cuisine for review. For the purpose of shopping and organization, we chose Ceviche, Cochinita Pibil (Mayan-style pulled pork with black beans, rice, and pickled onions) and Tequila Flan.

Carniceria Zoraya

At 10:00 am we headed to the lobby of our condo complex, and it was hard to miss Chef Mavi in her traditional white chef’s uniform. The four of us then loaded into her Ford Explorer, and began our culinary journey. Off we went to buy the supplies for our chosen menu.

She took us to places in town that we wouldn't have seen without her. Our first stop was Carnicería Zoraya, a local butcher. The owner greeted us from the behind the counter, and presented us with a fresh pork shoulder and a bag of fried pork rinds “for the road”.

Mariscos Plazola - Chef Mavi

The next stop was the fish market at Mariscos Plazola inside the Mercado 5 de Diciembre. Here we picked up fresh sea bass and tuna, but could easily have added Red Snapper, shrimp, or octopus, as everything was presented fresh and on ice. The staff in the market were happy to answer any questions, and Chef Mavi obviously had developed a great relationship with the owners. While we were there, we didn’t know it, but one of the people we met, we would see in a couple days, as the restaurant owner of Costa Chica (one of the best seafood values in Puerto Vallarta).

Coconut stand

As we traveled the cobblestone roads, from market to market, Chef Mavi shared stories about the local community, pointing out where to find the best lamb or oyster tacos. As a local resident, her experiences, and knowledge were insightful and entertaining. The "hole-in-the-wall" businesses, lining the roads in this old town, are the heart of the community. She pointed out a sidewalk business that serves fresh coconut water, so we stopped and had a drink from freshly macheted coconuts. The green coconuts also supplied one of our appetizers: the soft flesh was scrapped from the coconut, sprinkled with lime juice, salt and chile flakes.

Spice Shop

No Mexican menu would be complete without some fresh tortillas and fried corn chips, so a stop at Tortilleria Aries for some maize (corn) tortillas was a must.

Our next stop was across town to the spice shop. As we pulled into the parking area, Chef Mavi pointed out the local church: Iglesia del Pitillal. She had told us about the large statue of Jesus that had been carved out of a large tree. It is worth the stop. Across the street is the spice market. Amazing! The smells coming from the shop, and the variety of herbs and spices were great. Here we learned about Jamaica (Hibiscus flower), which we would later have as a refreshing tea.

Fruteria Montero

Next was the local produce market: Fruteria Montero. I found it “funny” that all the locals were in here shopping for their produce. Why was this “funny”? It was right behind the big new Sam’s Club and Wal-Mart. In the United States, these big stores put the small guy out of business…apparently not in Mexico!

Our final stop was at La Europea, a Spanish owned liquor store, where we picked up a bottle of Licor de Damiana, for the Tamarind Margaritas. I also picked up a bottle of Mexican wine (a chardonnay/chenin blanc blend) to pair with our Ceviche.

Agua de Jamaica

We arrived at Chef Mavi’s home, where her assistant, Rosalba, had already begun the cooking process, as many things needed to be done before our arrival. We settled in at the breakfast bar, looking into the kitchen, and were presented with guacamole and chips, fresh cheese, and our coconut along with a glass of Agua de Jamaica.

Arte Culinario Ceviche

Chef Mavi then proceeded to make ceviche, and showed us three different styles, using the fresh local sea bass, but adjusted for different regions. If you don’t know the difference between traditional and Acapulco style, then you need to take this class. The third style was served as the first course of our meal. Additionally, we tried an oriental style ceviche made from the fresh tuna. There was also a shrimp ceviche that we ended up taking home with us, and later in the evening had with a couple of cold cervezas (which worked great as a pairing due to the habanero “kick” in the ceviche).

Chef Mavi w/ Tamarind/Damiana Margaritas

We saw all the techniques in making the menu we had selected, and then were invited to move to the balcony of her home. The table was beautifully set, overlooking the Marina below. The “sexy” margaritas were served. It was the first time I’ve had a tamarind margarita, served in a martini glass, and rimmed with sugar and chile pepper flakes (they are addictive….matter of fact, I am now on a quest to find tamarind paste here in the U.S.).

Cochinita Pibil

We saw wonderful things during our shopping trip that we would probably never have seen without Chef Mavi's guidance. She knew the best places for fresh ingredients. This is probably the most authentic insight into the local culture you will find. Not only will you get a tour of the local markets, and a great meal, but you will become part of the “family”. As Chef Mavi, her husband Kirk, and their daughter Cristina Lugo, told us, we will “always have friends in Puerto Vallarta”.

Balcony view of the Marina

My only regret is that we didn’t meet with Chef Mavi and Cristina earlier in our trip. The tips on restaurants and markets that Cristina gave us came in handy for the remainder of our visit.

The cost of this full day (which went from 10:00am to about 5:30pm) was on the higher end of the quoted $110 to $150/person, But when you look at it, you would probably spend that much on a nice evening out. But you get so much more than just a meal. You get to learn about food, culture, and shop for the fresh food in multiple markets. And, you’ll now have friends in Puerto Vallarta.

Muchas gracias Chef Mavi y Cristina

Check out their websites at:
www.arteculinario-mavigraf.com
www.facebook.com/ArteCulinarioMG
Facebook Fan Page

Drinks on the beach

As I write this, I am sitting on the beach in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico (well not really...I'm in the patio of our condo, where I can pick up a wifi signal). I was trying to come up with an article for this week, that had something to do with a quick getaway from my mountain home. Mexico is known for its' strong tequila, mezcal, and range of beers. Certainly we've all seen the Corona and Dos Equis commercials, and I've had a few already down here (not too much on the wine front in this part of Mexico, but we did go to a wine tasting on Monday, that was not very good...put on by the Tianguis Turistico). While Mexico certainly does make these beverages, it doesn't do justice to the sophistication of some of the tequilas or beers being produced. I will admit that Mezcal is still shaking off its "bad boy" reputation. 

A year ago, I wrote an article about Tequila, and my trip to the Agave fields of Mexico. I've also written about the process used to make spirits, so I thought I'd take a look at some of my favorite "umbrella drinks"...you know, those drinks you only have when you are on vacation at the beach.

Obviously the first drink that comes to mind when in Mexico is a Margarita. There is a good recap of the history (maybe) of the Margarita at the Cactus Club website, however, I have also heard that the Margarita was created at Hussongs Cantina in Ensanada, Mexico. The best I can tell, the authentic recipe is pretty simple: Rub the rim of the glass with the lime slice to make the salt stick to it. Shake together ingredients (7 parts Tequila, 4 parts Cointreau, 3 parts lime juice) with ice, then carefully pour into the glass (taking care not to dislodge any salt). Garnish and serve over ice.

The classic umbrella drink while on a tropical vacation is the Pina Colada. The history of the Pina Colada appears to start in Puerto Rico. Here is a link to a good recap of the history. The recipe for a good Pina Colada is to pour 1.5 oz. rum, 2 oz. cream of coconut and 2 oz pineapple juice into a blender with one cup of crushed ice. Blend until smooth, and pour into a collins glass. Garnish with a slice of pineapple and a maraschino cherry, and of course an umbrella.

A similar drink to a Pina Colada is the Chi-chi. I can't find much history on the Chi-chi, other than it was a take off of the Pina Colada, but made with Vodka, even though there are a few more ingredients in the "authentic" recipes I uncovered....Put in a shaker that is filled with 50% ice: 3 parts Vodka, 5 parts pineapple juice, 2 parts Crème de Cacao, 1 tsp, grenadine syrup, and the juice of one lemon. Shake, and pour into a tall glass.

One of the oldest beach cocktails, appears to be the Daiquiri. History suggests that it was created in Cuba around 1901. The most authentic recipe I can find says to combine 2oz white rum, 1oz fresh lime juice and 1/2 oz simple syrup in shaker with ice and shake well. Pour drink in a chilled cocktail or martini glass and garnish with a lime wedge or mint leaf.

I always thought that the Mai-tai was an authentic Hawaiian drink, but according to history buffs... it looks like it was a California creation. Since some of the rums originally listed for making an authentic Mai-tai are not available anymore, here is the best/closest authentic recipe I could find: Hand shake all of the ingredients (1oz Jamaican rum, 1oz Martinique rum, 1/2oz orange Curacao, 1/2oz almond syrup, 1/4oz simple syrup, and the juice of one lime) briskly with crushed ice for at least 20 seconds. Serve the Mai Tai in a double old-fashioned glass. Garnish your Mai Tai cocktail with a fresh mint sprig.

Yeah, I know, these are the drinks the tourists drink. But, when you are walking around the mercado, and talking with the street vendors, there is always someone selling the traditional cold drinks of Mexico from carts on the streets. We have stopped for some coconut water, but didn't try the Juino Tuba (a fermented drink made from palm tree sap). The most famous are Horchata (made with rice, almonds, cinnamon, and sugar), Licuados (various fruits mixed with orange juice or milk then mixed in a blender), and Aguas Frescas (made with fruit and water and again. blended). Luckily, I'm one of those people with an "iron stomach" so I will dare to eat and drink anything. So far so good!