Duvarita Vineyards

We arrived at the Vineyard. A long table, set for 50 people was located in the shade of the vineyard house. As we checked in, we were promptly handed a glass of Dragonette Cellars 2014 Rose of Pinot Noir, then greeted by all of the owners. I have known the owners since we first met in 2008, and this is the first time I have seen everyone in one place.

All this was for the introduction of Dragonette Cellars’ first ever Chardonnay. But, why this particular vineyard? What was so special?

Pinot Noir

The Duvarita Vineyard is located just outside of Lompoc, and right outside the border of the Santa Rita Hills AVA.  The first things you notice are the sandy loam soils, the breeze coming from the west, and the sun located directly overhead.  A closer look at the vineyard, and it is very apparent how low the trellis systems are: less than two feet off the ground. The rows are seven feet apart and about three feet between vines.

John Dragonette talking about the vineyard

We headed up the south facing slope, 26 acres of vineyard surrounding us. As we moved into the Pinot Noir block that Dragonette Cellars farms, we stopped and discussed what makes this vineyard special. The sandy loam soils allow for excellent drainage, but also retain moisture. This area receives only 14” to 15” inches of rain annually, so an automated drip irrigation system supplements the needed moisture for ideal growing conditions. The vines are cane pruned low to the ground, to protect the vines from the constant winds. The lower hanging berry clusters then benefit from the radiant heat of the earth (the sandy soil reflects the heat nicely).  Wind removes the evaporative capability of the vine, stressing the grapes and creating thicker skins. Managing the wind is key. One of those approaches is to prune the leaves. Typically leaves are left on the west side to protect from the late afternoon sun, but at Duvarita they thin the leaves on the west side to open up the canopy thus letting the wind pass through easier. The entire vineyard is biodynamically farmed.

In the distance, we could see the newest vineyard that Brook and Cody are working on. It is higher up on the slope and the soil is currently being prepped. Brook indicated that they will be experimenting with head trained vines on that property. Interesting!

Lunch at the Vineyard house

Lunch was provided by Cecco Ristorante and included wood fired pizzas from Chef David’s mobile Italian brick oven. I sat with Brook and Cory Williams, the owners of Duvarita Vineyards. During lunch, I learned more about this unique location.

The property dates back to being part of the original Rancho Santa Rita land grant that was given in 1845 by Governor Pio Pico to José Ramón Malo. Presidio Winery purchased the land in 1999 and the Presidio Vineyard was planted in 2000. In November 2012, The Williams purchased the Presidio Vineyard. The Presidio Winery kept their name, so they renamed the vineyard. The Duvarita name comes from the combination of their parents names: Durrell and Virginia, plus “rita” for the local Santa Rita Hills. While this vineyard is outside the AVA, it is often referred to as “Super Rita”, because of the unique fruit grown there.

Duvarita Vineyard grows Viognier, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Syrah (at top of vineyard) and Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is the dominant variety grown. As mentioned, all the grapes are grown biodynamically. Currently, they are two years into the three year certification process. They are also members of the two leading sustainable winegrowing organizations, California Alliance of Winegrape Growers and the Vineyard Team. They supply grapes to some of the best wineries in the country: Chanin, Dragonette, Storm, Tatomer, Ojai Vineyards, Jaffurs/Mistress and Denner.

Steve, Jen, Cody, Brook, Mitchie, John, Brandon, Michelle, Jim

Back to our reason for showing up…the new Dragonette Cellars 2014 Duvarita Vineyards Chardonnay.  We tasted barrel samples along with appetizers of prosciutto wrapped figs w/ gorgonzola. The Chardonnay is developing nicely. Neutral oak aging and limited malolactic fermentation makes for a clean, Burgundian style Chardonnay. Pre-release orders are now being taken (hint: I placed my order, so they must be good, right?). Roasted beet salad, grilled vegetables w/ toasted couscous along with pizzas were paired with the 2013 Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir, and the 2013 Duvarita Vineyard Pinot Noir. A special pouring of the 2009 Presidio Vineyard Pinot Noir (same vineyard, different owner and name) topped the afternoon. Only 18 bottles of this rare library wine were available…guess who has one again (I drank the ones I originally had).

In the time I have been following Dragonette Cellars, I have been impressed not only with their winemaking skills, but their ability to identify the best vineyard sites and the blocks within those vineyards. They craft wines that reflect the individual vineyard in which they are grown. This was a chance to come see one of those vineyards up close and to understand why it is one of the best in Santa Barbara county.

Wines' Dirty Word

No it's not a four letter word, but "terroir" can sound like one to many wine drinkers and winemakers. I've used this word many times, in a number of my wine articles. But what does it mean, and why does it trigger such ugly arguments?

As you learn more, it will become obvious that terroir is a French term. And further, it will become clear that there is no true translation into the English language. The best description for terroir, that I can give, is the all encompassing "sense of place" that a wine has. It is that special mix of soil, climate, aspect of the vineyard (topography), and everything else that can affect the final grape product. All of these are unique to each vine, and remain the same every year. This sense of place contributes to the final wine produced, regardless of what is done during the winemaking process.

Let's look at the French connection, and how terroir became such an important feature of Old World wines. If you go back in history, you'll see that grapes were being grown throughout Europe, spread by the Roman Catholic Church. In particular, the Benedictine and Cistercian Monks, with their establishment of abbeys in the Burgundy region of France. These monks kept detailed records of how different plots of land produced different qualities of grapes, and ultimately wine. The best vineyards were eventually identified, and walls (or clos) were built around those plots of land. The monks knew that only certain areas produced the best product, and each plot of land had unique characteristics. They knew that there was a special terroir within each of the identified clos. The idea that unique terroir existed, spread throughout France and the European community.

Now, going back to the components of terroir, I mentioned, soil, climate, aspect, etc. As "terroir" suggests, it is tied to the soil. The soil texture, drainage, and the make up of the elements all affect the grapevine, and ultimately the grape. Limestone, granite, chalk, slate and clay are all associated with some of the great wines of the Old World. The soil can retain heat, reflect heat, drain excess moisture, or retain it. The choice of soil for planting affects the total vine.

Climate is another aspect to consider. But in the case of wine growing, it is broken down into macroclimate, mesoclimate, and microclimate. Macroclimate can be considered the regional climate, while mesoclimate is more associated with the vineyard. Microclimate is the smallest affected area. This can be a single vine, the space between the vines, or even the small area above the ground, or the canopy. All of these are affected by the aspect of the vineyard, or how the grape vines are positioned on the topography of the land. A hillside will drain better than flat land, and a southern exposure will receive more sunlight than a northern exposure. Some other things that might affect the terroir are influences by bodies of water. The Mosel, in Germany, is famous for its' hillside vineyards, that are moderated by the river. In Canada, Lake Okanogan moderates the cold region, to allow grapes to grow further north than what would be normal.

As you can tell, the word "terroir" implies all things that are natural to the place.

Where terroir becomes a "dirty word", is in the argument over whether or not it actually exists. The Old World (Europe) has based most of their wine laws on the expression of terroir. In the New World, the emphasis isn't so much on presenting a wine that shows a sense of place, but more presenting a wine that expresses the fruit. If you still are not sure what I am talking about, try a Bordeaux side by side with a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, or a French Burgundy next to a California Pinot Noir. This also becomes part of the argument for more natural wines, with less manipulation (which we see more of in the New World...I see an entirely new blog for the future here). Some are claiming that there is no such thing as terroir, that it is merely differing levels of sulfur that are present in the juice.

I know where I stand on this, and I am a believer in terroir. I can taste subtle nuances from wines grown within the same growing region, but in different areas of that region. The best example would be Paso Robles (east versus west) or Napa versus Sonoma. Even though they are close to each other, they are all different.

So, are you a "terroirist"? Do you seek that sense of place in your wines?