Certified Sustainable Wine

 

Lately, I have been seeing more and more wineries claiming that they are “Certified Sustainable" and it got me wondering, what is the difference between “Sustainable” and "Organic"?

Both systems value soil and water, and how it affects not only the plants, but also animal and microbes.

To be considered a certified "Sustainable" winegrower in California, growers must adhere to a set of guidelines established by the California Sustainable Winegrowers Alliance. According to their website, the program defines sustainable winegrowing as, “growing and winemaking practices that are sensitive to the environment (Environmentally Sound), responsive to the needs and interests of society-at-large (Socially Equitable), and are economically feasible to implement and maintain (Economically Feasible). The combination of these three principles is often referred to as the three "E's" of sustainability.”

For followers/believers of "terrior", sustainable winegrowing is particularly relevant. Caring for the vineyard's soil and environment is a basic necessity of terroir. In today’s health conscience society, some other benefits of sustainable winegrowing would include increased consumer interest, and a healthy place for growers and pickers to work. Participants assess their own vineyards and voluntarily contribute data to measure their adherence of sustainable practices.

"Organic" refers to the USDA's National Organic Program, which provides the official "organic" certification. Participation in this program requires verification that the required guidelines and regulations have been practiced (unlike the voluntary nature of sustainable growing). According to their website, “Organic is a labeling term that indicates that the food or other agricultural product has been produced through approved methods that integrate cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity. Synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, irradiation, and genetic engineering may not be used.”

The important point to remember is that “sustainable” does not mean “organic”, and “organic” does not mean “sustainable”. They can be easily confused by the average consumer, but they are not interchangeable. “Sustainable “vineyards can use man-made chemicals to control pests, but the grower is evaluating the entire environmental system, and determining how best to keep the system in balance, while minimizing the affects on the ecosystem. “Organic” vineyards are managed without the use of pesticides, man-made chemicals, or fertilizers.

While we have been reviewing what goes on in the vineyard, these same practices are carried over into the winemaking process, and can affect the final product you receive in your glass. It is important for consumers to understand all these different terms that are thrown out there. In addition to “sustainable” and “organic”, watch for “biodynamic” wines. I had briefly written about these in a previous blog about Ampelos Cellars.

So, next time you are in a winery, or even a wine shop, ask some questions about the type of farming used for the grapes, and practices the winemaker and winegrower follow. See if you can taste the difference, and experience the “terrior” of that winery.

Biodynamic and Organic Wine

Last week I had the opportunity to attend a winemakers dinner at one of our local fine dining establishments: Casual Elegance. Now, you'd have to know Lake Arrowhead...we are a small community tucked away in the Southern California mountains. When we get premiere winemakers showing up, it's a big deal (at least for those of us who are really into wine). So this dinner was a special occasion, as we had both of the winemaker/owners of Ampelos Cellars attending this dinner. Peter and Rebecca Work are two of the leading proponents of Biodynamic and Organic viticulture in California. I had met Peter a few years ago (before they were certified as Biodynamic) and spent about two or three hours in his winemaking warehouse learning about Biodynamic practices. This was my first time meeting Rebecca (she was attending a trade show in New York when I  ventured up to their warehouse in Lompoc). This night, I sat next to Rebecca, and listened to both Peter and Rebecca explain the  basics of Biodynamic farming .

Ampelos Vineyards

Now I don't claim to be a farmer, but as a Sommelier, I do believe that great wines are made in the vineyard, and I've got to believe that if you grow any type of food, you want to first assure that your produce is the best it can be. Some growers add fertilizer and pesticides to enrich the soil and control pests. There is valid scientific research to show that these man-made additives eventually destroy the soil. Organic farming is mainly concerned about healthy sustainable soil. Growers shun the use of man-made compounds, using natural compost, which in turn encourages living organisms to enrich the soil. Also "cover crops" are used to encourage beneficial bugs, such as ladybugs, which eat other pests that can affect wine growth. Biodynamic farming adds another element above Organic. Biodynamic farming sees the vineyard as a large living organism that is affected by the cosmos. The earth and moon, and their position in the signs of the zodiac, are thought to create "cosmic rhythms" that affect the vines, grapes, and ultimately the bottling, to time you should drink the wine. Now if this all sounds "new age"...think again. Biodynamic farming dates back to the 1920's with the theories of Rudolf Steiner. Interestingly, some well known winemakers in Europe adopted Biodynamic practices when they saw their revered Burgundy vineyards deteriorating. The soil was so depleted of nutrients something had to be done. Nicolas Joly was probably the biggest proponent, and it spread from there. Here in California, the practice is spreading, but is still less than 1% of the vineyards.

Ampelos wine bottles

Organic and Biodynamic wines are grown in the vineyard, but the attention to detail in the winery also affect the ultimate product. When I visited Ampelos (and Dragonette Cellars - who share the winemaking facility), they avoided using sulfur to clean their equipment. Instead, they used ozonated water. Both wineries gently handled their grapes. They limited the filtering and fining of their wines, letting the grapes speak for themselves, and express their terrior. While talking with Rebecca, at the winemaker dinner, I asked about additives that some wineries are using, and learned about a preservative known as DMDC (di-methyl di-carbonate). Rebecca believes this might be an additive that leads to some of the "wine headaches" that some people experience. I'm still exploring this. Needless to say, Ampelos doesn't use this man-made additive. Every time I am able to spend time talking with winemakers, I learn something new. It is a fascinating business they are in.

I know this is a overly simplified explanation of Biodynamic and organic, so I recommend you attend a winemakers dinner, and ask questions about vineyard and winemaking practices. So, what is the bottom line...can you taste the difference between a Biodynamic or organic wine, and any other wine? I must admit that I am still a bit skeptical about the cosmic influences, but the use of natural compounds, and the restriction of man-made chemicals can only be a good thing. The environment is less impacted, the ecosystem is sustainable....and, the wines are excellent.