Is France "Mecca" for Wine Geeks?



Notre Dame Cathedral

If you are into wine, like I am, then many of your vacations revolve around wine and food.  So, when your 35th wedding anniversary rolls around, you might look for a special getaway. Towards the end of 2018, we started gathering ideas. Then, out of the blue, we hear about a Rhone River Cruise with one of our favorite wineries, Dragonette Cellars. It would be a one-week river cruise up the Rhone River valley, sponsored by Food & Wine Trails, on a Uniworld River boat.

Eiffel Tower
After you start looking at the cost of airfare, and the time it takes to get there from the west coast of the United States, it makes sense to at least spend a little more time in France. So one week turned into two weeks, then you discover all the potential sites you can see, and it grows even further. By March, our itinerary had grown to just short of three weeks in France, with a one-day side trip to Monaco.

The trip was roughly broken into three one-week segments. The first week was spent in Paris, Loire and Nice. The second week was on the river boat heading from Avignon to Macon and back to Lyon. And, our third week was spent in the wine country from Lyon to Dijon.

While my blog has traditionally focused on wine and food, the next series of blog posts will be a combination of travel tips, experiences, and of course food and wine in the different regions of France.

Loire Countryside
Ten general observations: 1) the French are connected to their smartphones. More so than what we see in the US. They all wear headphones. 2) The cheapest way to get around, other than walking is via the metro, or by train. Taxis are expensive. 3) Traffic in Paris is worse than Los Angeles or Seattle. 4) The people in Paris, in general, are not nearly as friendly as the people in Southern and central France. 5) Hotels don’t use bar soap. They are all stocked with liquid soaps. 6) The bakeries and fruit/vegetable markets are better than anything seen in California. 7) The coffee is strong, but less acidic than American coffee. 8) Every town is full of art and history (brush up on French history before going…you be more impressed). 9) The Mistral Winds are real, and they blow all the time. I can see how it might drive people crazy. 10) France is a beautiful country, and is much more forested than I had envisioned.

Tasting in the Hermitage Vineyards
My first tip for three weeks of travel to France is to start planning early, and do a lot of investigation through travel guides, blogs, and youtube.com videos. Talk with friends that have traveled to the regions you plan on visiting, and understand that you won’t be able to see everything on one trip. 

Secondly, try to learn the language. Even if it is just a few words and phrases. Almost everywhere we went, the people spoke English, but even showing the slightest attempt to speak French gets you a long way. "Bon Jour" is the universal greeting.

Don’t worry about what to wear, to fit in. They will know you are an American anyway. Wear what is comfortable and doesn’t “scream” that you are a tourist. For example, I was told that white tennis shoes should never be worn by men, as you will stand out. Not true, and I wish I have brought my white tennis shoes, as they would have been much more comfortable than the shoes I brought. The first two days in Paris, we walked just under 30 miles. My feet were worn and blistered. Oh, how I wish I had brought those shoes. Walking on cobblestones, and for long distances, wear what is comfortable!

Bakery in Arles
Plan ahead, and go to a currency exchange before heading on your trip. My local bank offered a great rate and no exchange charge for converting dollars into Euros. The rates are better than what you will get at the airport, or even foreign banks. You will need cash for your taxi from the airport to your hotel. Most of the time, using a credit card will get you the best exchange rate. We were warned to make sure our credit card was a chip card, with a pin number. But, I never had to enter a pin number the entire time. The chip, however, was necessary, as almost every place required it.

Dijon
If you are planning on tours, research and read the reviews, and book early. Many had discounted prices for early booking. Also book your train tickets as early as you can. The train is the way to go in France. It is cheap, fast, and comfortable. You can book through a US based company., called Loco2. We were able to book first class tickets with reserved seats, and even get lunch vouchers. Our most expensive train trip was the six hours on the high-speed train from Paris to Nice, and was only $100/person. But, try to pack light for your trip, as hauling your luggage around the train is a bit of a challenge, and there is no one there to help you. Heck, on one of our train trips, no one ever even checked for our ticket. Bags are not checked, and security is a little on the slacking side
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My last tip before getting into the actual travel recap is to get a Global Entry card. You will obviously need a passport to travel to Europe, but having the Global Entry Pass will speed you through lines leaving and entering the United States. That card probably saved us about three hours of waiting in line. So, if you don’t have one, plan well before your trip and apply.

The hill at Hermitage, taken from St Joseph Vineyards
Over the next couple posts, I will recap the trip with our experiences, travel locations, dining spots and wineries visited. I hope you will stick with me, and I hope to inspire you to take your own trips. As I read somewhere, “Don’t let others tell you about France, go see it yourself.”



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Another Trip to Lodi, Day three




After spending a full day in the California ShenandoahValley, our Sunday was open to check out wineries in the Lodi Area. There are somewhere on the order of 90 wineries in this sprawling farming region in the central valley of California and foothills of the Sierras.

Spenker Goat Creamery and Winery
We had taken our wine group up for a tasting day on Saturday, and since our hotel was in Lodi, it only made sense to check out the local wineries. After all, some of the oldest vines in California are located in this area. See my past blog on the area.

Lodi is known for Zinfandel, but as we found out, there is so much more to this area. I have created a “wish list” of wineries to check out. There were more on my list than we could possibly get to in a day, so what do you do? In our case, we headed to the first tasting room to open in the area. Most open at 11:00, but the Oak Ridge Winery tasting room opens at 10:00am.

Oak Ridge Tasting Room
The tasting room is situated in an authentic 50,000 gallon redwood wine tank. The Oak Ridge Winery is the oldest continuously operating winery in the Lodi area, originally opened after prohibition in the 1930’s. They current produce at least nine brands (all available at the tasting room). Some might be familiar with Moxx Roxx Zinfandel, which is readily available at Total Wine and More. This is Zinfandel country, and you will find all types of different styles of Zin. The first two zins we tried, were completely different. One was jammy and fruity, and the next was spicy and sharp. We asked if there was something in between, and sure enough, we were offered a taste of the Silk Oak Old Vine Zinfandel, and it hit the spot. A good start to the day! The women in our group were intrigued by the wine slushy machine, did a tasting. Nice and refreshing on a hot day.

Relaxing at Macchia
Based on recommendations from other wineries in the area (I always ask for up and coming wineries, or someone doing something different), we head to the north east corner of Lodi to visit Bokisch Vineyards. They are the only winery in the area that is experimenting with Spanish grape varieties. When we arrived, I was a bit concerned about the condition of their vineyard. They were very brown. Upon questioning of the tasting room staff, they said they had recently harvested the grapes, and were no longer irrigating that section of vines. They seemed a bit defensive and put off by the question, so I don’t think we started off on good grounds. They offered Albariño, Verdejo, Grenacha (Grenache), Tempranillo, and Graciano. We tasted a few of the wines that were open, but many were not available for tasting, or only for club members. So, purchase were a bit limited here. The winemaker, Elyse Perry was there on a Sunday, showing others the wine making process, so we didn’t have a chance to speak with her. 

Klinker Brick Tasting Room
The next stop was at one of the better known wineries in the area. Along with Michael David, Klinker Brick winery helped put Lodi on the map. When we arrived, the tasting room was already busy. There was no room at the tasting bar, so we established ourselves at one of the barrel tasting tables. They offer two different tasting options: 1) the regular tasting flight for $5, and 2) the premium tasting flight for $10 (both refundable with a purchase of wine). My wife and I each did different tastings, so we could share, and try all the wines. Klinker Brick is a Zinfandel house. While this is the focus, they do offer, a sparkling wine, some whites, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane, and Syrah. But…you come here for Zinfandel, and they don’t disappoint. Prices range from $15 to $37 for their Old Ghost Zinfandel, and top off at $65 for their grand reserve Syrah.

Lunch at Spenker, speaking with Bettyann
We had been hearing about a goat creamery that was located in Lodi, offering fresh goat cheeses, along with wine from their vineyard. We drove across town to the Spenker Winery. The first thing you see is the big red barn, where the tasting room is located, and the goat pens to the left of that. We met Sarah (daughter of the owners) in the tasting room and proceeded to taste their wines, and later the cheeses. They had large tables in the tasting room covered with red and white checked table clothes, so we asked if it was okay to buy some cheese and wine, to add to our lunch snacks. We enjoyed a nice, cool spot to relax, and meet Chuck and Bettyann Spenker.  They had just finished picking and crushing Muscat grapes that morning. We had a long conversation with Bettyann about both the winemaking and cheesemaking process. These are down-to-earth, friendly people. Very inviting. Needless to say, we stocked up on fresh goat cheese (five different types available this day) and wine.

Macchia Tasting Room
Our last stop of the day was Macchia Winery. This family owned winery sources grapes from throughout the region, including some old vine zinfandel from the 140 year old vines in the Shenandoah Valley. These guys are a zinfandel house. Out of the approximately 20 wines available, I’d venture to say that half were either Zinfandel or Primitivo. A tasting allowed you to try all the different wines, and revisit them again. This was critical to my purchases, as there were so many Zins, I was going back and forth to find the right ones. In addition to Zinfandel, they offer some Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Petit Sirah. The tasting room is in an old farm house, surrounded by gardens with chairs and tables strategically placed. The tasting room is small, and has plenty of gifts and food items available, but it can get crowded.

By the end of the day, the damage had been done, I purchased 20 bottles (mostly a variety of different zinfandels) along with some wonderful goat cheese, and met some very friendly people. 

Our group regathered for dinner at the Woodbridge CrossingRestaurant, located in a historic brick building. Our group was seated in what used to be an old railroad ice car. The restaurant had a varied menu, but the focus was on steaks. The old west décor, and live music made for a nice end of the day.

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